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Thread: graded paper

  1. #1

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    graded paper

    Hi!

    In my search for a different paper to use, I've come across a lot that I would like to try but I don't have much money to spend. I hope to use it for my final project for this semester. I'm thinking about papers both by Ilford and are the FB MG warmtone and the Gallerie 3.

    The problem is, I haven't been able to use graded paper before. I see that a lot of people say that it's better quality and the website seems to make this claim as well. I tend to develop my film the same way so they contrast is pretty much consistant from roll to roll and I tend to make good negatives. Don't you use different dillutions of developer? How do you know which dillutions will effect the paper grade to move it to 3.5. Can you lower the contrast on graded papers to 2.5? I'm hoping to use this paper to make 16 prints of nighttime landscapes or at least outdoor shots.

    Are there any sites or books that I could check out?

    Also, for the multigrade warmtone paper, a friend of mine tried warmtone by forte and the paper base seemed almost orange, at least in comparison. I would like to use a warmer paper to go along with a kind of mood, but I don't want it to look dirty as I thought this other paper looked.

    Thanks for your input!

  2. #2

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    Using a fixed graded paper requires a lot more from the photographer in consistancy exposing and developing film. I have found that when using VC paper it gets really easy to become lax and lazy because you can adjust paper contrast so much more easily. Graded paper does give a richer print in my experience.

    To answer your questions about adjusting contrast with graded papers, the common practice is to use a soft developer like Selectol Soft in conjunction with a normal developer like Dektol or D72. In my practice if I need to soften below a paper grade, I will develop part of the time in Selectol Soft or another soft working developer and finish in the normal developer to set the blacks on the print.

    Some people do dilute developers beyond the manufactures recommendations. I have not done this because I have experienced paper fogging with legthy developing times.

    Insofar as graded papers, I like JandC Nuance a lot. It is what I would consider a neutral to slightly warm emulsion.

    The Ansel Adams book "The Print" will give you some information on the use of graded papers and fine tuning the print. Good luck.

  3. #3

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    Graded Paper

    Just went back to graded papers. Maybe I've been lucky but I find that making prints over VC to be even easier. As long as you have a fair knowledge of negative control/consistency it works fine. I borrowed one from Michael Smith and Paula Chamlee; using Amidol and a water bath. I'm nailing prints on the 3 and 4 try now. Maybe it is in keeping with a vision for the print because you should always know where you want to go. Rarely use grade 2. I'm happily in a grade 3 world right now and it is the best ever. I'm not going to debate Amidol versus other developers just simply that it will work over the entire period when
    producing a print and produce the exact same result on the last print as the first. I've used every other print dev. there is. Most are either the same or a variation of same or they have no good effect on modern papers. We only have so many days in our lives; that means only so many prints so I choose to use a formula that guarantees me the best results while I pump out 20 or 30 copies of the same print in a day. Always proof your negatives with a grade one filter. That wil open up the print and let you see exactly what is there or not. I used to proof on #2 paper or filter and it tells you nothing. Do I go up or down? Gee-you'll never know. Try this for yourself and you will wonder why you ever did it before. On making your first test print put it up on a plastic sheet; sqeeegie it off and then put a very low light on it. That will tell you if your blacks are too dark. Readjust your time or f/stop appropriately and go from there. Soon you should be nailing the print on the second or third try. If I'm not worrying about what filter to use it eliminates one more variable.
    Go Graded.....
    Best to everone, Peter

  4. #4

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    I am also looking at going back to graded papers. If your looking at the gallerie paper, another bromide paper you might look at kentmere bromide. I am having good results and it is a LOT cheaper than gallerie.

  5. #5

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    Note that MG FB Warmtone is not graded
    Mark Layne
    Nova Scotia
    and Barbados

  6. #6
    Bob Carnie's Avatar
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    I use both graded and Multi Grade

    I have not found one is better than the other. I think the printing skills required for both have their paticular methods of approach.

    With graded paper, control can be with the negative and as well with a two bath developer.
    With VC paper , control can be with the negative and developers , but most importantly with split filter printing a whole new world of advantages present themselves. Learning how to master split printing is not as easy as one thinks, but when you get the grasp of it, using graded paper is not the choice of approach that I use.
    I will use a graded paper for specific needs.
    You mention night photography, being able to split print would definately be an advantage for you.

  7. #7
    Rolleijoe's Avatar
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    Andrew, try the Foma papers. For me, I prefer the look from Agfa Brovira paper, but it is long since gone. Foma seems to have the closest look. I too find that graded papers are much easier to print on, and have a superior base & look to them over MC versions.

    Ilford is not going to give you the warm tones you're looking for. I can not understand why photographers seem to think of them as their last/only choice when it comes to these things.

    Freestyle carries Foma @ very reasonable prices, give them a try. J&C is forever out of stock on what I need, so I've given up on them.

    Rolleijoe

  8. #8
    jp80874's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vet173
    I am also looking at going back to graded papers. If your looking at the gallerie paper, another bromide paper you might look at kentmere bromide. I am having good results and it is a LOT cheaper than gallerie.
    What developer are you using with kentmere bromide?

    Thanks,
    John Powers

  9. #9

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    I use ethol lpd and can get a nice silvery look

    Quote Originally Posted by jp80874
    What developer are you using with kentmere bromide?

    Thanks,
    John Powers
    art is about managing compromise

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by vet173
    I am also looking at going back to graded papers.
    Graded papers are blue only light sensitive. If you've
    been using VC papers with their blue and green sensitive
    emulsions you've become accustomed to a much dimmer
    safe-lighting than is allowed when using Graded paper.
    Shop for the appropriate yellow, or orangish-yellow
    safe-lights. Dan

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