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  1. #1
    matti's Avatar
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    Bulk roll film debacle

    My bulk film (35 mm efke 100) came loose where the end was taped to the roll in the cassette. It was quite inconvenient and happened three times last week on a vacation to Crete. Hopefully only one roll was ruined. (How light tight is a wet suite anyway?..)

    I was using ordinary masking tape, used when painting walls and it has worked fine before. Maybe I was just lazy loading the film. Does any one have a good tape recommendation?

    /matti

  2. #2
    aoresteen's Avatar
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    I use freer tape. Or at least I did when I bulk loaded. I haven't done any loading for 5 years as I've been buying HP5 from B&H in the 50 roll pro-pack. My time is limited so I'd rather develope & print rather than bulk load.
    Tony
    Newnan, GA

    Cambo 23SF, Hasselblad, Mamiya M645, Rolleiflex 2.8C
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    http://www.oresteen.com/ROLLEI4X4.htm

  3. #3
    arigram's Avatar
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    If you told me would be here I could have helped.
    Last edited by arigram; 05-19-2006 at 08:38 AM. Click to view previous post history.
    aristotelis grammatikakis
    www.arigram.gr
    Real photographs, created in camera, 100% organic,
    no digital additives and shit




  4. #4
    David A. Goldfarb's Avatar
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    I use ordinary masking tape, and it's worked fine. I roll the tape so that it contacts one side of the film, goes around the reel, and then to the other side of the film.
    flickr--http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidagoldfarb/
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  5. #5
    Monophoto's Avatar
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    Like David, I also use ordinary masking tape, with the tape adhering to both sides of the film and wrapped around the spool.

    There is a form of masking tape commonly used in painting (and, curiously enough, called "painter's tape") that has an adhesive that is much less 'sticky' than ordinary masking tape. Typically, it is blue in color. I think I would be reluctant to use this to attach bulk loaded film to spools.

    How were you advancing the camera - manually or with a motor drive? If you are doing it manually, I can see how the enthusiasm of the moment could cause you to try too hard and rip the tape. The tension sensor in motor drive on my Nikon FM-2 (an old Spiratone unit) is sensitive enough to stop advancing before the tape tears.

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by David A. Goldfarb
    I use ordinary masking tape, and it's worked fine. I roll the tape so that it contacts one side of the film, goes around the reel, and then to the other side of the film.
    I use the same method; again with ordinary masking tape. Never had a problem.

  7. #7
    metod's Avatar
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    I used to bulk load a lot and just like David above, I used ordinary masking tape. You want the tape to hold as much film as possible to add the strength. Attached is the picture showing the tape holding the film on both sides and firmly squeezed. It never came out even pulled hard with my manual film advance.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails film.jpg  

  8. #8
    Ara Ghajanian's Avatar
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    I use the blue painter's tape and it's been fine for me. I use a motor drive on my Nikon F3 and it's never ripped the film off the spool. I just make sure that the tape is adhered to both sides of the film.
    Ara
    Just because you're not paranoid doesn't mean they're not out to get you.

  9. #9
    Muihlinn's Avatar
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    sometimes the glue goes off and looses most of their adherence, change the masking tape roll.
    Luis Miguel Castañeda Navas
    http://imaginarymagnitude.net/

  10. #10
    Jim Jones's Avatar
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    I use the same technique as others above, but use 1/2 inch Scotch lithographer's tape. Wider lighographer's tape should be even better, but the narrow tape has never failed in hundreds of rolls. There is much variety in masking tape, and it is designed for easy removal. While lithographer's tape is designed to be removable, it is also intended to adhere securely to film. Also, lithographer's tape ages better. My supply is 10 or 15 years old, and seems as good as new.

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