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  1. #1

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    Efke Film in General

    Hey all,

    I have recently been experimenting with Efke film and I have had overall pleasing results. I have some comments, questions, and some small complaints that I wanted to address. Firstly I wanted to see what people that have used this film in general think of it? I like it so far but I have only used the 50 speed developed in D-76 1:1. I want to know if anyone has any suggestions for development? I first developed for the suggested 8 minutes and got slightly thin negatives. I tried 12 minuted and got much more satisfactory results although not yet perfect. Also I hear not to use stop with it. Dose anyone know anything about this and what the effects of using stop may be? The other concern I have is that it is going to be available in the future? One complaint I have is that it tends to curl up a lot. I am shooting 120 roll film and it is a pain in the neck to deal with. I don't think anything can be done about this though. Anyway i am looking forward to your comments. Thanks a lot.

    Asa

  2. #2
    BrianPhotog's Avatar
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    Efke is currently known as Adox, yes?

  3. #3
    Flotsam's Avatar
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    I shoot Efke R50 almost exclusively in the studio and have been developing it in D-76 1:1. It has excellent reciprocity characteristics for long exposures and I like the grain and tone, especially with metalic objects.
    I always use a stop bath and have never had pinhole problems and have never experienced the scratching problems that many have mentioned with these films although I did switch to a hardeng fixer just to play safe.
    As far as curling, I haven't experienced any problems that I would consider much beyond normal. This is just my personal experience, there are wide variations between darkrooms and localities ( I understand that it is just a bit hotter and dryer in AZ than it is here in NY ).
    As far as availability, remember that this film is now sold under the Adox name so if Efke appears to be unavailable, just get the Adox R50.
    Hope this helps.
    That is called grain. It is supposed to be there.
    =Neal W.=

  4. #4

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    Sounds to me like you may be underexposing - check your shadow detail - is it weak or thin?

    I shoot a lot of 35mm and 120 rollfilm Efke 100 and Efke 25. I don't have any problems with neg curling. I use the Ilford fill, soak and dump method of washing after fixing. I do a final rinse in distilled or deionized water with 2 or 3 drops of low foam wetting agent added (I use Edwal LFN). I hang my negs to dry with weight attached in a dust free environment. When the negs are dry I store them flat in a NegaFile.

    I use a water rinse instead of an acid stop bath (because I normally use Pyrocat which is a staining and tanning developer).

    However, there's nothing wrong with using a stop bath with the Efke films developed in D-76 or other non-staining developers. In fact, an acid stop bath may be required for development control (to stop the development) if your development times are short.
    Tom Hoskinson
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  5. #5
    PhotoJim's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BrianPhotog
    Efke is currently known as Adox, yes?
    It depends from whom you buy it. If you buy it from fotoimpex.de or jandcphoto.com, it's Adox. If you buy it elsewhere, it's Efke.
    Jim MacKenzie - Regina, Saskatchewan, Canada

    A bunch of Nikons; Feds, Zorkis and a Kiev; Pentax 67-II (inherited from my deceased father-in-law); Bronica SQ-A; and a nice Shen Hao 4x5 field camera with 3 decent lenses that needs to be taken outside more. Oh, and as of mid-2012, one of those bodies we don't talk about here.

    Favourite film: do I need to pick only one?

  6. #6

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    Is there any difference at all though between the stuff packaged as Efke and the stuff packaged an Adox?

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by asaphoto
    Is there any difference at all though between the stuff packaged as Efke and the stuff packaged an Adox?
    I cant notice a single bit of difference. I dont have experience with roll film in efke/adox.
    Although I have a pretty extensive experience with it in sheet film, both the Efke PL100 and the Adox PL100. I just finished (last night) labelling all my 7x17 negs, and realized... theres alot of them.
    Almost exclusively Efke/Adox 100 with about 50 sheets of JandC 200 thrown in there when I first started shooting 717.
    I used a weak stop bath of Kodak indicator stop in the beginning and have noticed the negs using the stop bath have a slightly less apparent stain (Ive used the efke/adox with PyroHD only)
    It prints wonderfully well in my opinion. I have done some silver printing with it, but mainly I use the negs for printing in pt/pd. The tonal range and scale seems perfectly suited with this film, pyroHD, and pt/pd contact printing. Ive found that a majority of the time when I print in pt/pd I have to use very little Na2 to increase contrast.. usually it ends up being 1 drop of 5% solution for a coated area of 7x17. This to me says, in a really unempirical and technically immeasurable way, that the range of the negs is pretty good. Might have alot to do with good exposure or whatever but I think it also has a bit to do with the good film.
    One of the things Ive noticed is that Freestyle website mentions that efke film shouldnt be "pulled". Im not in the least bit technically oriented, most everything is by feel with me. But I expose the PL100 film at about an EI of 50/32 as Ive found it gives me a better tonal range and negatives with good thick highlights and a nice long density range (sometimes too long). Im not sure but this to me sounds like "pulling" .. and Ive found it works well to expose at an EI about onestop less in speed.
    hope that helps. Just my limited experience but my be pertinent to your situation a little.

  8. #8
    noseoil's Avatar
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    Agree with Matt, although I do silver printing not alternative process. Matt, I think the issue about "pulling" (less development to reduce contrast) stems from the two different films, Efke 25(50) & 100 and their properties. Efke 100 has a very nice ability to contract a scene with loads of contrast, so "pulling" isn't a problem at all. On the other hand, Efke 25 is as close to the opposite as you can find. It will expand contrast beyond most needs, but doesn't really like to reduce contrast, very limited in this respect. As usual, the "hype" used in selling film (cars, laundry detergent, etc.) has a grain of truth, but is spoken with no understanding. tim

    P.S. Need to get some Efke 50 and see how I like it. The others are great.

  9. #9
    scootermm's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by noseoil
    P.S. Need to get some Efke 50 and see how I like it. The others are great.
    Ive been curious about it as well. I noticed that JandC and Freestyle now carry the PL50 in 7x17, but am a bit aprehensive to try it as I already shoot almost entirely at F45 or F64 for DOF on the big sheet... imagine my exposures even in broad daylight will get to be TOO long

  10. #10
    David A. Goldfarb's Avatar
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    I wouldn't talk about "Efke in general," since 25, 50 and 100 are really very different films. I don't think you can generalize from one to the other.

    I also suspect you may be underexposing a bit, but it's like any film--do the normal tests for speed and development time, and you can figure out what works for you.

    I've been using Efke and Adox PL100 in 4x5" interchangeably and haven't noticed any systematic differences. If you order them from different suppliers, you may notice differences due to age and storage conditions, but it starts out as the same film.
    flickr--http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidagoldfarb/
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