pmk pyro and agitation
i have just started developing my hp5+ using a slosh tray from PF and am have some problems with my new film speed test. i was agitating by picking up the front then the back and then the front every 15 seconds developing for 12 min at 68 d dilution 10 cc 20 cc = 100cc water,. this produced very dense neg that show i need to increase my film speed to 800 asa. after speaking with the lady at pf who quoted from the book of pyro for tray development that i should lift one side the first 15 seconds then another the next 15 second. this has produced a neg that looks like there is no stain and very thin. help? does anyone use this tray with pyro and if so hoe do you use it.
I hope your dilution description is a typo. It should be 10 - 20 - 1000. I don't use that tray, but I do use continuous, or nearly continous, agitation without any problem. I don't exactly follow the same regimen as prescribed in the book.
sorry for the typo it is 10cc 20 cc 1000cc
I have been using PMK exclusively for a few years now. I personally use the HP Combi tanks for my 4x5 sheet film, giving 2 inversions every 15 seconds, for normal contrast and 3 inversions for more, N+1 and N+2. I gave up on trays years ago.
For the stain, make sure you are using a fixer with no hardener. The Formulary sells the right one. The acid will prevent the stain from forming in the final bath, in the used developer. Also, make sure you are doing that final bath, 2 minutes with agitation every 30 seconds for tanks.
Sounds like you may need to get your standard technique down pat before making any accurate density determinations. Developing film is like following a recipe, master it first. Then you can make controlled deviations as needed.
Time & tides wait for no one, especially photographers.
thanks for the replys i use a water stop bath and tf-4 . i have been developing using a tank for 2 years with pyro . this is asomething i am trying out.
Sponsored Ad. (Subscribers to APUG have the option to remove this ad.)
I use a PF 8x10 slosher tray with Pyrocat (a pyrocatechol based developer). I develop TMAX 400, TRI-X 320, Efke 100, Efke 25 and Ilford FP4.
I use a 5 minute tempered water pre-soak followed by development in Pyrocat-MC diluted 1 + 1 + 100. I agitate by lifting alternate corners of the slosher tray.
I use a plain water rinse instead of an acid stop bath.
I fix in Suzuki's Non-Hardening, Neutral pH, Buffered Rapid Fixer (based on Ammonium Thiosufate), Followed by washing and drying the film.
I get very uniformly developed negs with very low fog levels and excellent proportional image stain and tanning.
Last edited by Tom Hoskinson; 11-10-2006 at 12:29 AM. Click to view previous post history.
Everything is analog - even digital :D
IIRC, Hutchings no longer recommends the final bath in the used developer. The reason you see more stain when that is done is that the added stain is mostly overall, not proportional, and so reduces contrast on VC paper and increases exposure time as well.
If you think the stain is weak, bleach out the silver with Farmer's reducer. You shouldl be able to make at least a recognizable print on #4 graded paper from the stain image. If not, then something is really wrong.
The stain should be obvious with most films. T-grain films and slow films (APX 25 and Pan-F Plus come to mind in this latter category) may appear relatively unstained, but there will still be stain. Print the negatives before drawing any conclusions.
I find that FP-4, HP-5, Tri-X and Plus-X have blatant stains that you could not possibly miss. This has been true of my rollfilm and my sheet development.
Jim MacKenzie - Regina, Saskatchewan, Canada
A bunch of Nikons; Feds, Zorkis and a Kiev; Pentax 67-II (inherited from my deceased father-in-law); Bronica SQ-A; and a nice Shen Hao 4x5 field camera with 3 decent lenses that needs to be taken outside more. Oh, and as of mid-2012, one of those bodies we don't talk about here.
Favourite film: do I need to pick only one?
Does this suggestion of not re-bathing the film apply to negatives made for alternative processes ? A "thin" film will scan and print well, but it might be hard to expose for UV contact printing ?
I have mixed some PMK, but I'm still unsure how I "need" to use it for contact printing...
I doubt that you need an overall stain in any case. The alternative processes generally need a high contrast, but as close to zero density in the shadows as you can get without losing image contrast. What some would call "meaty" negatives of low contrast will not be good. Any overall stain acts as extra density in printing platinum and other papers that respond only to the blue and UV. Sandy knows more about this than I do.