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  1. #11

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    I also had the same problem, with TMax 100, as Dave states. It was a test in bright sunny conditions, bracketed. I shot again with Ilford FP4, great results. There was also another post in the last few months describing the same experience (TMax100, I think, but I'm not sure).

    The only thing that rings a bell to me is reading about the TMax films when they were first released (Fred Picker, I think) and the warning that the 100 speed film was verrrry "responsive" to developer variation.

    Sandy - any ideas?

  2. #12

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    Have you tried making a print? I find thin negs from pyrocat print well, better than dense ones.

    K.

  3. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by George Collier View Post
    I also had the same problem, with TMax 100, as Dave states. It was a test in bright sunny conditions, bracketed. I shot again with Ilford FP4, great results. There was also another post in the last few months describing the same experience (TMax100, I think, but I'm not sure).

    The only thing that rings a bell to me is reading about the TMax films when they were first released (Fred Picker, I think) and the warning that the 100 speed film was verrrry "responsive" to developer variation.

    Sandy - any ideas?
    George,

    I don't have a clue. If there was some kind of universal response of TMAX-100film in Pyrocat-HD the developer variation theory could make sense. But most people who are using TMAX-100 and Pyrocat-HD, including me, are not experiencing any kind of problem. And I have used the film in both medium format and sheet film, though never in 35mm. So for sure there there is no basic, universal incompatibility with this combination.

    Sandy King

  4. #14

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    I routinely develop TMAX-100 (35mm, 120 rollfilm and sheet film) in Pyrocat-HD and in Pyrocat-MC and I have never experienced any kind of a problem.
    Tom Hoskinson
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  5. #15

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    Thanks to all those who replied. Right now I using an EI of 100, if that makes any difference. I may try to push my dilution up to 1.5-1.5-100 and see if that makes a difference.

    Thanks again.

    Gary

  6. #16
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    Might also avoid presoaking. Swelling the emulsion with plain water means the water must be displaced before development can begin. Just a thought.
    Gadget Gainer

  7. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by gainer View Post
    Might also avoid presoaking. Swelling the emulsion with plain water means the water must be displaced before development can begin. Just a thought.
    Pat, I always use a 5 min. tempered water presoak before developing TMAX-100 in Pyrocat (HD, MC and P versions). I've never seen a problem.
    Tom Hoskinson
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  8. #18
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    Some years ago Phil Daxis did an article for what is now Photo Techniques wherein he presented results of presoaking on a number of films. I can't remember all of it, but I remember that some films responded differently from others. I think the T-grain films have been changed in the meantime anyway. I remember a time when I had to use a bit of wetting agent in developer for Tmax-100 to avoid air bells.
    Gadget Gainer

  9. #19

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    I shoot a lot of Kodak TMAX100 and TMY400 My film is all fresh with current emulsion numbers. I use a 5 minute tempered water presoak and I have seen no development problems based on densitometry and printing the negs.

    I use the same 5 minute presoak procedure with Kodak TXP 320, Efke 100 and Efke 25. I have experienced no Pyrocat development problems with these films either.
    Tom Hoskinson
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  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by coriana6jp View Post
    Hi All,

    My process run in the jobo is a 5 minute pre-soak, 14 minutes in the developer, 30s water stop, followed by 5 to 6 minutes fixing in fresh Ilford Hypam.

    Any ideas or advice is greatly appreciated.

    Thanks!

    Gary
    Ilford Hyparm is acid fix that kills the stain. Try using alkaline fix with low sodium sulfite : TF-4 from PF or OF-1 from "recipes" of this site or plain hypo fix.

    Best luck
    luben

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