The anithalation dye also depends on the film. TMax 100 for instance, seems to "want" more fixing than other films. If you are scanning this film, it is easy to remove any color cast by using "unsaturate" or "desaturate", whichever they call it. Another way would be to scan in color, examine all 3 color channels, throw the worse 2 channels away, and fine tune the last remaining one. And yes, the emulsion side faces in when developing.
I did not make it clear in my reply, when the negative is placed in the fix the antihalation layer is removed.</td></tr></table><span class='postcolor'>
The antihalation dye on Kodak films is removed fairly completely in the developer. The residual pink, magenta, or purple cast on b&w negatives is not due to the antihalation dyes but is something else. Kodak seems to like to use the existance of the color to indicate incomplete fixing. This may be true if the color is intense. Actually the color will diffuse out in a simple water bath or HCA. I just allowed my MF reels to rest in water for around 5 - 10 minutes. The water becomes colored and the film clears. Different format films of the same type, eg. TX-120 and TX4x5 clear at different rates. The 4x5 TX clears very rapidly, like in a minute or two. I do not have a handle of the source of the color, but it is not the antihalation dye(s).
Truly, dr bob.
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I love the smell of fixer in the morning. It smells like...creativity!
Truly, dr bob.
for what it is worth. At the college when the fix was toward the end of the semester, we saw the pinkish purple cast on the negatives. The fix in our case was b eing exhausted. We just added 2 minutes to the fix time, and about 4 extra minutes to the wash time. This completely cleared the pinkish cast.
One of the advantages of PMK pyro is with Tmax films the residual pink is completely removed in the re-soak in the spent developer. Clean as a whistle and in about 2 minutes. Extending the fix time may or may not do that. Generally the Kodak HCA will remove any that is left. Aggie is right that old done in fixer will not strip of the pink.
if you hate developing in a Jobo you are gonna really hate BTZS tubes, IMO. First you are in the dark with tubes or at least really reduced lighting in a jobo you are in the daylight ( I used to process film out doors so I could enjoy the day) In the Jobo, it is no muss no fuss. In the BTZS tubes you gotta get in there and get your hands in the chemistry. I think you are reaching for straws. Just my 2 cents worth. If I am wrong just say so and I will say I am sorry.
lee\c
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This may seem like a dumb response, but if it does clear during the normal process of developing the negs, why does it matter? I'm hoping that you have tweaked on to something that we should know about.
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When I was soaking my PMK-developed film in used developer, I discovered that the used developer will get rid of most of the magenta dye in T-Max 100. I think all that is really necessary is an alkaline environment, which is why fix won't do it, since most fix is acidified.
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When I run HP5 in Ilfosol-S or Rodinal, I get a pinkish to purpleish tint to the film. However, I've been working with Ilfotec DD-X lately and I don't get any tint on my negs. None. Transparent film with a light ND look.
Standard development, 30-seconds in water, 30-seconds in Stop, 5 minutes in fix, 5 minutes under pressure washing, 2 minutes in dryer.
Prints great with great contrast. And not tint. I think certain developers seem to strip out the tint, which seems to be related to the anti-halation layers. Try techpan in C-41. That'll get you one hell'va weird film tint.
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