On a related note, I've be experiencing some tinting in film myself. When developing T-Max and Tri-X films, I found that I had a slight purple tint with T-Max developer and a more neutral black/grey colouration when I used Diafine. I wonder why the difference?
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"The secret to life is to keep your mind full and your bowels empty. Unfortunately, the converse is true for most people."
I think if you look through all the notes closely, you'll find a pattern:
pre-soak, longer fix, wash-aid, rinse
They all have one thing in common; they extend the wet time of the film. The longer the anti-halation layer is in water, the better it washes out. I use a pre-soak, but about 10 min of development, a double fix, a rinse and wash-aid, followed by a 10 min wash and a final photo-flow. I don't have pink negatives since I adopted this procedure.
Keep in mind, the pink does no harm to print quality.
PS: some people claim that a bit of UV treatment to the dried film will fix the pink issue to, but then again, I like my negatives.
It comes down to two things. Wet time and sulfite. Use a sulfite wash aid, and the pink goes away. Extend wash times by whatever means you find convenient, and the pink goes away.
My Tri-X doesn't come out pink and I use TF-4. I use a modified Ilford wash method that works for me.
I shoot it at 1000 lately and develop in Diafine, which means I don't have an overly extended time the film is in the wet. I don't wash between development and fixer, which further limits the time.
Everyone has such a varied experience with this film.
I think if you look through all the notes closely, you'll find a pattern:
pre-soak, longer fix, wash-aid, rinse
They all have one thing in common; they extend the wet time of the film....
Not in my case Ralph. I find film development tedious so I try to minimize the time. I usually use strong HC-110 to keep the development time at 6 minutes and only use a 1/2 minute presoak. With fresh rapid fixer I may only go 3 minutes in the fix (which is more than 2x clearing time). I think the brief rinse after fixing and fresh clearing agent is what does the trick. The pink is usually minimal or gone before the film hits the wash. I have never had any pink stain remain in the film using this procedure.
Not in my case Ralph. I find film development tedious so I try to minimize the time. I usually use strong HC-110 to keep the development time at 6 minutes and only use a 1/2 minute presoak. With fresh rapid fixer I may only go 3 minutes in the fix (which is more than 2x clearing time). I think the brief rinse after fixing and fresh clearing agent is what does the trick. The pink is usually minimal or gone before the film hits the wash. I have never had any pink stain remain in the film using this procedure.
Joe
Joe
You can shorten it further and make it even less tedious. The 1/2 minute pre-soak doesn't do anything for you anyway other than extending development time a little.
You can shorten it further and make it even less tedious. The 1/2 minute pre-soak doesn't do anything for you anyway other than extending development time a little.
OTOH, a pre-soak swells the emulsion in readiness to accept the dev, gets the film and tank up to the processing temperature and helps prevent air-bells on the film.
IME good, clean negatives go a long way towards good prints. I'd say they are worth a couple of minutes' wait.
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Kevin McCully - Northamptonshire, England.
Second comment, addressing Stepahnie's comment about Diafine. It didn't at first occur to me, but I had to develop a roll of Tri-X 120 that I used with my Holga in Diafine, since I had to underexpose by almost two stops.
All the negs I developed in Pyrocat came out pinkish, while the one roll I developed in Diafine did not. No presoak in Diafine, otherwise same process.
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