Pink or Magenta Cast with T-max, new Tri-X, and other films (not blue or green cast)

[Stephanie Brim]

Sometimes when I develop Tri-X in Rodinal I get a slight pinkish cast, but it's nothing I worry much about. I get it more when I'm pushing the film past normal speeds...into the 3200 and 6400 range. Longer times in the soup. Strange, that.

[David Louis]

What is TMAX fixer? I've never heard of it and I've been developing TMAX films for 10 years or so. B&H and Adorama do not, and as far as I know, never have stocked it. Is it only available in the UK?

[Harry Lime]

It's a square 1 liter bottle that makes 5 liters of fixer. Has a big TMAX logo on the front.
Looks like evey other yellow labeled Kodak item I've seen.

I want to say that I bought one of these eons ago in Los Angeles, but I'm not 100% sure. In any case it appears to work like a charm, so I'll stick with it.

Catalog number is

CAT 508 9198

Says that it's made by Kodak France.


On another note is says 'ph 3<--->6' on the side.

[zenrhino]

Sorry to kick up an old thread, but after fixing a roll of tmax 100, my fixer got some of the magenta in it.

Should that fixer be discarded or is it ok?

[Anscojohn]

Originally Posted by Gleaner

OK thanks. I thought maybe my chemicals were starting to weaken or something else gone wrong.

******
A purple hue on negs is a sure sign that the ph. of your fixer is too high. Acidulate your fixing bath.
I had that years ago with Orwo film and wrote to Wolfen, sending them a neg to show them.
Their response and advice vass in ze Cherman lenkwidge, so it het to bee korrekt!!

Anscojohn, Mount Vernon, Virginia USA

[Neal]

Dear Zenrhino,

Your fixer should be fine.

Neal Wydra

[dancqu]

Originally Posted by Ken Lee

Another suggestion is to pre-soak the film,
prior to the developer,...

I've a vague recollection of some post which stated that
the pre-soak at some correct ph will clear the film. Perhaps
some one has experience with that approach and knows
what chemical to add. Also a fixer at some correct ph
may clear it up. I've been testing high ph carbonated
sodium thiosulfate fix on paper and have noticed a
great difference in clearing speed. May do away
with that hue too. Dan

[radiantdarkroom]

After developing many different films I have found that it is particularly difficult to remove the purple dye from Tmax100 . My suggestions if you are using Kodak rapid fix is to fix the film 5-6min depending on the quantity of film and agitation. Make sure part B has been added to your fix, part B also increases the amount of film that the fix will last for. wash for 1 minute, hypo-clear for 2 minutes and wash again for 5minutes with repeated dumping of water. hypo-clear will turn very purple after awhile if you process alot of tmax films.

[Justin Silber]

I've been developing my 4x5 Tmax100 in Ilfotec HC and fixing in Ilford Rapid Fixer. The fixer takes out most of the purple, and the rest goes away when washing the negatives.

- Justin

[Rik]

Yesterday I developped 2 rolls of the same film in Diafine, in a Paterson 2 reel tank.
The top film came out sort of purple-ish, although it looks like I may still be able to print the negs.
The bottom film came out looking a lot more normal, although still not 100% perfect.
Can this be due to a light leak in the tank or is there another reason for this?
The Diafine is fresh, and I'm sure that is ok. I didn't use a stopbath as per the Diafine instructions, and fixed for about 3 minutes (Amoloco fixer) as I always do.
Any suggestions please?