Pink or Magenta Cast with T-max, new Tri-X, and other films (not blue or green cast)

[bdial]

You wouldn't want any part of the film uncovered in the fixer. Also, you need to agitate in the fix, which may account for the difference, if you didn't agitate at all, or perhaps not enough.
Also, I find that most of the dye comes out in the wash, I let the fim stand for about 5 minutes in water as part of my wash sequence and that batch of water is quite purple when I drain it. YMMV however.

[srs5694]

Given the top/bottom difference and the fact that both rolls were the same type, my suspicion falls on your rinse/wash procedure. If you rinse and wash film by filling the tank with water and then dumping it, the bottom roll will get more wet time during rinses/washes. This could be just enough of a difference to wash the visible dyes out of the bottom roll but not the top roll. In the future, you might want to consider extending your rinse/wash times and/or juggling which reel is top and which is bottom midway through your rinse/wash cycles.

[pnance]

I find my HCA ususally turns pink (or purple) as its used with films with tint.

[Akki14]

You need 290ml of solution per 135mm film, so nearly 600ml of solution for 2. It's on the bottom of the paterson tank if you ever forget how much solution you need per film per film type

[Snapshot]

This happened to me once when using Diafine and a single reel tank. I was my belief that it was a result of not having enough developing agent/fixer in the tank. The topmost part film would only receive the chemicals during agitation and that's why it didn't develop/fix evenly.

[Monophoto]

I agree with the many comments here that the first thing to suspect is incomplete fixing. But there could be another problem

The color is key - exactly what color was the film? Magenta-pink is a sign of incomplete fixing. Blue is another problem. I had a 100 foot bulk roll of T-Max 400 that had a faint blue tint regardless of the fixing time. Never could confirm what caused the problem. In addition to the blue tint, the overall contrast was noticeably reduced. My unconfirmed suspicion was that the film had been fogged by exposure to heat (I had ordered it from a New York dealer, and no one was home when it was delivered - so the UPS guy left the package next to the door, on the blacktop driveway, in the sun).

[Rik]

thanks for these additional tips/hints.
I do believe the point made about the wash/rinse applies to me: thinking about it I have the tendency to fill the tank and then turn it over, which indeed would give the top film less time. I will use the suggested method going forward, thanks!
I'm absolutely sure I have 600 ml of fixer in there.
The colour definitely is towards the purple, not blue.

[dancqu]

Originally Posted by Ian Grant

... the dye in Tmax has a deleterious affect on
the fixer, and needs considerable fixing to remove
it fully. ... Just re-fix. Ian

Films other than Tmax but with no silver iodide included
can also show color; TriX, PanF+ and perhaps most or
all other panchromatic emulsions.

Perhaps sensitizers would be a better word; ones which
have color from the start or take on color through
processing. The color sensitizers are intimately
associated with the silver perhaps even
atom for atom.

In a word and according to Kodak, if film has color after
fixing then the fixing is not complete. Some of that sensitizer
now with color is hanging on to some silver halides yet not
removed. Silver iodide is a most insoluble halide. Most
using the iodized films recommend twice the fix time
and mention much reduced fixer capacity. Dan

[Toffle]

Hi folks;

I just developed my first roll of Tmax 400 (120). After the developer came out very red-looking, I was on guard for weird results. The stop and fix (fairly fresh) came out ok, though, so I was a bit surprised at how pink my negatives came out after the wash. After a bit of reading, I understand that this film tends to require a much more thorough fixing. I'll know better next time.

Question: Can I re-fix this film? (after it's dry... I'm not about to re-spool a wet film)

Second question: If I don't re-fix, will the pink tinge affect my printing contrast? (the negs look like something out of a multi-contrast filter pack)

Cheers,

[David A. Goldfarb]

Rinse the film and use a hypo clearing agent like Permawash. This, combined with a normal wash should remove the magenta dye.