I didn't think a Hypo Clearing agent was recommended for Pyrocat developers. Could be another area for dissapointing negatives.
Who made that recommendation? I always use a hypo clearing agent (plain 1% solution of sodium sulfite) with films like TMY and Tmax-100. If you don't getting rid of the pink dye stain requires longer fixing and wash.
The dye will be more quickly dissipated if films are not loaded back to back on the reels. Although Jobo says it is OK to do so, my students often have troubles when loading films back to back.
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[FONT=Comic Sans MS]Films NOT Dead - Just resting[/FONT]
So I will try to FIX the problem now . I am just wondering why I did not get this problem with one film development.
- Jim -
I do not load the films back-to-back, they fit onto the reall one after another as they are rather sort (120 ones) (... did I get you right ?)
- Sandy -
Do I get it right now that to use the Hypo Clear Bath is to wash the fixer away? How long should I wash the films in the Hypo Clear Bath and how long in the clear water afterwards to have them washed properly (considering 8 minutes fixing time in Ilford Ilfofix 1:4) ?
Who made that recommendation. I always use a hypo clearing agent (plain 1% solution of sodium sulfite) with films like TMY and Tmax-100. If you don't getting rid of the pink dye stain requires longer fixing and wash.
Sandy
I would have attributed it to you but obviously I'd be wrong. So maybe it was an Urban Rumor I picked up somewhere.
Thank you Snapshot, that sounds more like a plausable explanation.
I happen to recall the use of alkaline fixers are recommended for PMK and other staining developers. I've been using a staining developing for over a year now and an alkaline fix, in the general case, preserves the stain. Alkaline fixes generally wash out of negative and print materials more rapidly and consequently, a hypo clearing agent is not required.
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Do I get it right now that to use the Hypo Clear Bath is to wash the fixer away? How long should I wash the films in the Hypo Clear Bath and how long in the clear water afterwards to have them washed properly (considering 8 minutes fixing time in Ilford Ilfofix 1:4) ?
When developing TMY or TMAX-100 I fix the film for six minutes in an alkaline fixer. After fixing I place the film to soak in a !% sodium sulfite solution (or you can use a commercial hypo clearing bath) and allow it to soak for about ten minutes. A soak of ten minutes should clear out the pink dye.
It is very important with these films that you use a fresh fixer.
I happen to recall the use of alkaline fixers are recommended for PMK and other staining developers. I've been using a staining developing for over a year now and an alkaline fix, in the general case, preserves the stain. Alkaline fixes generally wash out of negative and print materials more rapidly and consequently, a hypo clearing agent is not required.
A hypo clearing agent may not be required for most films, but with TMY and Tmax-100 I highly recommend it, even with an alkaline fixer. I find that fixing in an alkaline fixer and 20 minute wash, without the use of a hypo clearing agent, does not eliminate the pink dye with these films.
BTW, hypo clear is alkaline so it will not in any way cut the stain. Same is true of the 1% sodium sulfite solution I use.
BTW, good agitation is also very important when fixing films developed in staining developers. If you just leave the film with no agitation the dye stain will not be removed evenly. This is doubly important when fixing several sheets of film at the same time in a tray. You must continue to shuffle the film for the duration of the fixing period to evenly remove the dye.
. I am just wondering why I did not get this problem with one film development.
Linear Mode
