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Go Back   APUG > APUG English Forums > Darkroom > B&W: Film, Paper, Chemistry > Pink or Magenta Cast with T-max, new Tri-X, and other films (not blue or green cast)

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Old 04-27-2008, 07:32 PM   #341 (permalink)
 
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How long did you fix for?
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Old 04-27-2008, 08:11 PM   #342 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
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How long did you fix for?
I use TF 4 fix in two 3 minute rinses seperated by a water rinse. No tint.
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Old 04-27-2008, 08:38 PM   #343 (permalink)
 
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I developed my first roll of TMY-2 yesterday and noticed this color as well. I fixed for 3 minutes after a 30-second water stop bath. I re-used my fixer, so when I poured it back into a graduate, there was a distinct rosy color as well.

Will this change the chemistry of the fixer? To my understanding, it is not safe to dump fixer out in a regular sink, so I will have to take it to a photolab about an hour's drive away for proper disposal. If the change in color won't affect the chemistry, I'll go ahead and use it until the fixer is spent.

Any suggestions?

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Old 04-27-2008, 09:02 PM   #344 (permalink)
 
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After a while the dye in the fixer will fade and turn a bit yellow looking, but it is still ok to use. TMax films will exhauset the fixer more quickly than other films. In my experience you can run about 1/3 less the amount of TMax film through a volume of fixer before it is exhausted.
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Old 04-28-2008, 06:10 AM   #345 (permalink)
 
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I usually fix for about 5-6 min with Tri-X, HP5, Plus X, FP4, Foma, Efke etc.
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Old 04-28-2008, 09:36 AM   #346 (permalink)
 
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Default I fix for ten minutes....

It's only time, right?

And I wash via agitation per Ilford. The first several rinses will have dye in them, just sort of removed from the film almost and waiting to exit. A few more, and it's clear.

BTW, you do know that ID-11 and D-76 are the same, no?
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Old 04-28-2008, 11:33 AM   #347 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
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Tmax 100 ... a distinct pink/rose/aubergine tone to the negatives after the final rinse/wash and Photoflo bath.
The pink comes out in HCA - leave it in until the pink is (mostly) gone. A bit more pink will come out in the photoflo if you leave it in for a few minutes. TMX also takes a bit longer to fix than PX or TX - I give it 5-7 minutes and be sure to agitate a bit in the fix.

The pink comes out much faster if the wash water/HCA/photoflo is warm - about 80F. It doesn't budge if the water is 60F or less.

For a developer I wouldn't have picked HC110 - the results would be enough to make me stop using the film.

Try D-76/ID-11 1:1. For Tech-Pan like lack of grain develop in Microdol-X or the Ilford equivelant. I use 1:3 and like it fine - some claim full strength (and shooting at ASA80) is the only way to go.
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Old 04-28-2008, 04:45 PM   #348 (permalink)
 
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I'm trying D76/ID-11 with my other roll and lengthening out the fix time with my other roll of Tmax 100.

I re-fixed and I got the pink out.
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Last edited by Uncle Bill; 04-28-2008 at 05:06 PM.
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Old 04-28-2008, 09:00 PM   #349 (permalink)
 
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I fix my 100TMX in Kodakfix for five minutes 30 seconds. The film clears after about 2.5 minutes when following 6 min in HC110 Dil B and 30 seconds Kodak Indicator Stop Bath.
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Old 04-28-2008, 09:33 PM   #350 (permalink)
 
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I've also had good results with XTol with TMX100, albeit in 4x5 sheet format...in 35mm I've also used the TMax developer and it worked terrifically.

Learned the hard way what many others here have said - it's a great film, but has low tolerance for discrepancies in development so make sure you have good quality control and repeatable processes.
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