Yeah, yeah, I know what Kodak says and 25 years of usage by others.
BUT, I just bought a roll of TMY-2 and have a hundred footer coming from Freestyle, so I am putzing with it.
My fixer is from my fixer experiments that I've posted here previously. It's 25% of 60% ammonium thiosulfate and 15g/l of sulfite. It clears conventional film in under 8 seconds and T-Max stubs in well under 30.
However, even leaving it in for 20 minutes with agitation does not eliminate the pink stain, contrary to what Kodak says. And yet, one minute in Photo-Flo and it's gone! I cannot find any reference to this effect on the internet and certainly not Kodak.
With fresh fixer, it looks like I can do 2 minutes in it (4X clear time) and as little as 1 minute in the Photo-Flo. (And the PF turns a nice pink!) One minute more optional.
My experience is that fixing does not really remove the pink stain. It might be true that extending a sodium thiosulfate fix helps, but I haven't found that extending an ammonium thiosulfate fix helps.
I've always found that an extended wash is the best trick. Wash longer than you would wash a conventional emulsion film.
If the Photo-Flo does the trick, then don't worry. Fix as you would fix normally (you obviously know the rule about 2x the clearing time) and let the Photo-Flo do its thing.
The dye is just a sensitizing dye. It does not seem to have any harmful effects, so even if you have a roll that still has the dye, all evidence suggests that it's perfectly archival and the dye has scant effects on printing.
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Jim MacKenzie - Regina, Saskatchewan, Canada
As I mentioned in another thread, thorough washing clears the stain. Hypo clearing agent is said to help. Rapid (or ordinary) fixer seems to have little effect, especially if it is on the acid side. Rapid fixer will slowly bleach negatives, attacking the shadow areas first. Avoid over-fixing, especially with the very strong brew you use.
My experience is that fixing does not really remove the pink stain. It might be true that extending a sodium thiosulfate fix helps, but I haven't found that extending an ammonium thiosulfate fix helps.
I've always found that an extended wash is the best trick. Wash longer than you would wash a conventional emulsion film.
If the Photo-Flo does the trick, then don't worry. Fix as you would fix normally (you obviously know the rule about 2x the clearing time) and let the Photo-Flo do its thing.
The dye is just a sensitizing dye. It does not seem to have any harmful effects, so even if you have a roll that still has the dye, all evidence suggests that it's perfectly archival and the dye has scant effects on printing.
Agree with the above. I never have any problems with it. I fix with Hypam 1:4, water rinse, Heico PermaWash, then a 15-20 minute wash, then Photo-Flo. Usually the last of the dye comes off in the PermaWash.
I have never tried Kodak Rapid Fixer, but if you are having problems you might try their product to see if it works any better with their film.
1. I have read something from Kodak that says the dye is locked into the silver halide and hence is an indication of adequate fixing. The implication is that if you see dye, it's not fixed.
Experience and their suggestion of using HCA for a final dye removal would indicate that there are two dyes. One is the locked into the halide, and the other not. This little theory fits our observations.
2. My fixer is slightly alkaline, although I've never heard of image degradation with any fixer short of perhaps hours of submersion.
I have never tried Kodak Rapid Fixer, but if you are having problems you might try their product to see if it works any better with their film.
Tried it. Not was fast as my fixer.
As an aside, have you ever tried the Ilford violent agitation method of washing? No need for wasting time and water. With a fresh fast fixer, fast wash, and Photo-flo you can be hanging to dry in 5 minutes.
They are AH dye, trimmer dye, acutance dye and sensitzing dye(s). All of these must be removed for a clear film after processing. The sensitizing dye(s) are adsorbed to the crystal, the rest are not. Many dissolve in organic solvents or are scrubbed off by organic solvents such as photo flo. Some are pH sensitive, and others are sensitive to sulfite.
All are removed, one way or another, by proper processing.
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