</span><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (EricR @ Apr 8 2003, 08:16 AM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'> I was just developing a bunch of 35mm film and did a pre-soak. To my surprise no color change to the water when I dumped it. Would a pre-soak still benefit a 35mm roll? With MF I still get the anti-halation layer coming off and coloring the water so can see a benefit there. I was using FP4 for 35mm.
Eric </td></tr></table><span class='postcolor'>
I noticed that as well. FP4 in 4x5 or 120 will soak off a wicked blue dye - i don't think the 35mm is the same - I notice it develops faster as well. It is possible I guess that the presoak removes a nearly clear layer (I don't know) I presoak for a different reason. Ansel makes the case that if you get water into the emulsion first, the developer will take 20 seconds to replace the water and will give a more even development. Even development is a skill in the larger formats. It is no issue once you crack the code though - I bought some restrainer and never had to use it
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My photos are always without all that distracting color ...
I developed a roll of TriX 320 TXP in Ilfosol for 9 min at 73^F. Ilford stop bath for 45 sec and rapid fixer for 5 min.
Two funky things that I have no idea how happened:
The end that you roll up and lickemstick is dark. Really dark. Can't see the printing on the edges dark.
The whole thing (that is the part you can read the lettering on, that is) is a weird purple. Not like Donny Osmond or Prince purple, but like a magenta.
Granted, I shot this roll in my POS Lubitel that I really don't know much about since I can't read the Russian manual, but I think I got the exposures ok since I used a light meter and set things by hand.
Is this a developing problem, or id10t error by the shooter? Not that the two are mutually exclusive.
The dark part of the film is the outside end of the exposed roll, so it was probably hit by strong light (sun or otherwise) which exposed it through the backing paper.
The magenta is due to low washing times or low fixing times. I'd wash the film for 3x the time you used on this film. If that does not correct it, fix for twice the time. And just in case you are not doing this right now, use a hypo clear solution for 2 minutes.
I developed a roll of TriX 320 TXP in Ilfosol for 9 min at 73^F. Ilford stop bath for 45 sec and rapid fixer for 5 min.
Two funky things that I have no idea how happened:
The end that you roll up and lickemstick is dark. Really dark. Can't see the printing on the edges dark.
The purple sounds like an anti-halation dye. Many films have it, and I deal with it by giving the film a 3-5 minute presoak in water before developing.
As to the dark film, Andre is correct: part of the film has been fogged. Roll film differs from brand to brand as to it's ability to withstand ambient light, but to be on the safe side, I always load and unload in the lowest light available.
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"If You Push Something Hard Enough, It Will fall over" - Fudd's First Law of Opposition
I'd agree with André and Doug - remaining anti-halation backing and end-roll fogging, respectively.
But, I'd add that the Lubitel may not be winding the film tight enough to avoid fogging when the film is removed from the camera. The work-around, as Doug suggests, is to unload in subdued light (or total darkness) and to keep the roll protected from strong light until developed. I have no suggestions about where to have the Lubitel serviced if its film tensioning is off.
The loose tensioning may or may not be a left-over communist plot to bring down the West by fogging our film.
Pre-soak and vigorous aggitation during fixing will usually get rid of the residual pinkish/purple cast.
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[COLOR=SlateGray]"You can't depend on your eyes if your imagination is out of focus." -Mark Twain[/COLOR]
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I thought the plot was to fill my bourgoise apartment with old russian cameras of dubious proletariat provenence. =)
You might be onto something there.
Although extra fixing time is often suggested for getting rid of the pinky-purples (as opposed to the blues), I'm always nervous about over-fixing and the potential for bleaching shadow detail. The pre-soak with some aggitation, and vigorous aggitation initially in the fixer usually does it for me. In the cases where there's still a color cast coming out of the fixer, I just fill the tank with water, put the cap back on, and make like a paint mixer for a couple of minutes. Keeping time to a Latin Rumba tune is optional, of course.
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[COLOR=SlateGray]"You can't depend on your eyes if your imagination is out of focus." -Mark Twain[/COLOR]
I don't use medium format film, but I do use 35mm tri-x.
Are you using fresh rapid fix at 1/4 dilution? You should only have to fix for 3 minutes (for the 35mm anyway). How long are you washing the film for?
I give it a number of vigorous inversions in the tank before force washing (very gently) for at least 20 minutes.
If the "pinky-purples " persist after fixing, try soaking for 2-5 minutes in a 20 gram per liter sodium carbonate bath, with agitation. Music is optional. Follow this soak with normal washing.
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Tom Hoskinson
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If the "pinky-purples " persist after fixing, try soaking for 2-5 minutes in a 20 gram per liter sodium carbonate bath, with agitation. Music is optional. Follow this soak with normal washing.
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