This seems to be a recurring observation among many photographers including myself. Some time ago I did a little experimenting to determine the cause and effect of this phenomenon. My results and reasoning point to the following.
The residual color, be it pink, magenta, or blue (cyan) in some cases, depends on the film manufacturer, the developer and the processing. I have an idea it probably has something to do with antihalination but its NOT the antihalination dye applied to the non-emulsion side. That is removed or discolored in the developer pretty much to completion. The color seems to be on the film backing beneath the emulsion.
It does not harm the film or affect the printing in any way I have observed. As others have stated, good washing in hypo clearing agent will help. Letting the film reside in rinse water will eventually leach out most of it. Interestingly, I find it requires longer to remove the color from TXP-120 than TXP-4x5. The sheet film clears completely in the holding bath prior to completion of the developing sessions. (I do tray style.)
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When Kodak introduced the new Tri-x, I could not get the blasted pink cast to come out of it, where I never had an issue with it with the old tri-x. Tried longer fix, longer wash. Fresher fix, fresher wash. And different fixer brands, and it would never go away so I just gave up and lived with it. Then one day I developed in Rodinal instead of Diafine. The developer came out very dark in color, and the negatives came out without a hint of magenta.
Gah! I had the exact same thing happen. I was using ID-11 to develop. Rodinal it is for the Tri-X from here on out.
Yeah, that's what I found. I could use fresh fixer and let it sit for 10 minutes and it would still have a trace of purple. 2 minutes in hypo clear and the purple was gone.
It could be the sensitation dye, an anti-halation dye, or a combination of both. They seem to be more soluble in alkaline solutions - at least I've never noticed residual colour after I switched to all-alkaline processing. The differences between different developers could be due to differences in the alkalinity? Anyone seen a difference between D-23 (sulfite, low alk.) and Beutler's (carbonate, high alk.)?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Claire Senft
If the coating is not washed off and if it is evenly applied to the whole negative area the coating will have the effect of increasing printing times and with VC paper increasing the contrat.
I haven't experienced this, at least not to a detectable degree. My printing times and contrast have remained the same whether there was any residual stain or not.
I just pulled a roll of TMax 100, 120 film out of my jobo. I was using D76 developer. It came out, um, pink - well, heavy magenta perhaps. There are images present, but what should be clear is pink. Sort of like a heavy, dark, Pepto Bismol pink.
All the chemistry is fresh, and I developed some 4x5's two days ago with the same batch, no problem. I don't replenish, all chems are one shot.
This is a newly reconstituted jobo, and I am using some old jugs to hold chemistry. I cleaned them well, and I don't think the solutions are contaminated. They worked for the 4x5 sheets.
Did I short change one of the process steps? Did I not develop long enough? I've never seen this before, and I have developed a lot of TMax in the past and never saw this. However, I don't claim expertise - I've probably just been lucky so far.
Here is my process, basically following Jobo's recommendations: 5 minute rinse, 6:30 in D76, 1:00 stop (ilford stop), 5:00 fix, 5:00 rinse (10 water changes), 1:00 wetting agent bath. Jobo temp set at 20C, motor speed 'P'. (I did preceed my session with a glass of Smoking Loon Cabernet - could *that* be the problem? I didn't pour any down the Jobo! :-)
t-grain eats up fixer like candy, try 10 minutes.. be sure to use a hypo-clearing solution (kodak hypoclearing agent), otherwise your wash time should be 30 minutes. But if you are using hypoclearing agent, 5 minute wash will work. If the pink doesn't go away, refix, and wash longer.
Andy
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You may trying refixing again. Its been awhile for me and TMY, but I recall I had to refix and wash to get the odd flim colour to a tolerable shade of faint pink
I read the above helpful replies, and checked my working solution levels. Gee, I wondered - why is the hypo clearing agent volume so low, and why do I have so much fixer left?
It looks like I fixed my roll for 5 minutes in hypo clearing agent!
I put the roll back in *actual* fixer for 5 minutes, then cleared and washed. No more pink!
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