Switch to English Language Passer en langue française Omschakelen naar Nederlandse Taal Wechseln Sie zu deutschen Sprache Passa alla lingua italiana
Members: 71,827   Posts: 1,582,075   Online: 869
      
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 15
  1. #1
    Willie Jan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Best/The Netherlands
    Shooter
    4x5 Format
    Posts
    1,911
    Images
    49

    Pyrocat HD questions

    Hi,
    i have some questions about the pyrocat developer.

    when mixing do i have to use alcohol to solve the phenidone?
    I read it at the unblinking eye site, but on other sites i did not see it.

    Second,
    is it possible to use a fixer like amaloco X89 or does this create problems. I do not have the sodium thiosulfate at this time and would like to do some tests.

    i did a test a came at:
    Fuji across 100, rated at 100.
    Pyrocat HD 1:1:100
    18 minutes at 20 degrees celcius
    agitate first minute, and after that once each 45 seconds.

    What i want to to do to check this is:
    ------------------------------------
    first find out the time that my enlarger creates black at a clear part of the neg at #2.
    Put the stouffer card onto the photo paper.
    develop, dry the photo and see if it has the whole range of grays.
    If so, put in the neg with the gray card and see if this photo creates the same color as the gray card has.

  2. #2
    juan's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    St. Simons Island, Georgia
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    1,646
    Images
    4
    You do not have to use alcohol, but it takes a long time and lots of stirring to dissolve phenidone in water. The alcohol helps but is not necessary. I'm not familiar with your fixer.
    juan

  3. #3
    glbeas's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Roswell, Ga. USA
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    3,307
    Images
    109
    If you need an alkaline fix so the stain is not neutralized and all you have is an acid fix, dump some sodium carbonate by the teaspoon into the fix until the fizzing stops and use that. Works for me.
    Gary Beasley

  4. #4
    Willie Jan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Best/The Netherlands
    Shooter
    4x5 Format
    Posts
    1,911
    Images
    49
    Ok gary,

    i'll try that.

    thanks.

  5. #5
    glbeas's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Roswell, Ga. USA
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    3,307
    Images
    109
    One thing I've noticed between the acid and alkali fix, acid fix you can open the lid before the film is completely cleared with no harm as the developer is neutralized by the acid. Alkali on the other hand the developer will keep working until the film is cleared, so you can still get fogged film opening the tank with fixer in it in the first minute or two.
    Gary Beasley

  6. #6
    Willie Jan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Best/The Netherlands
    Shooter
    4x5 Format
    Posts
    1,911
    Images
    49
    is it the same with acid & alkali fix to get the proper time, use a piece of film fix it and watch until it is cleared, and then double the time?

  7. #7

    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    1,670
    For all the staining developers you do not need to use an alkaline fixer. One that is slightly acid or near neutral will work just as well and is far less stinky. May I suggest Riuji's neutral fixer

    Water .............................................. 600 ml
    Ammonium thiosulfate, 60% .................. 200 ml
    Sodium sulfite (anhy) ........................... 15 g
    Sodium metabisulfite ............................ 5 g
    Water to make .................................... 1.0 l

  8. #8
    glbeas's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Roswell, Ga. USA
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    3,307
    Images
    109
    Quote Originally Posted by Willie Jan View Post
    is it the same with acid & alkali fix to get the proper time, use a piece of film fix it and watch until it is cleared, and then double the time?
    Yes, it all works the same. Dump the fix if the time is more than double the fresh times.
    Gary Beasley

  9. #9
    Willie Jan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Best/The Netherlands
    Shooter
    4x5 Format
    Posts
    1,911
    Images
    49
    Quote Originally Posted by Gerald Koch View Post
    For all the staining developers you do not need to use an alkaline fixer. One that is slightly acid or near neutral will work just as well and is far less stinky.
    I use the amaloco X89 a lot. It is a fast oder free fix here in the netherlands.
    I did a test last night between the natrium and the x89, and must say that i can not determine any differences between these two. Tonight i will see at a friend (microscope) if there is some change on detail level... Otherwise i will still use the x89 which is said to be gently to the negative.

    Thanks.

  10. #10

    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Seattle
    Shooter
    8x10 Format
    Posts
    1,212
    Images
    47
    Quote Originally Posted by Willie Jan View Post
    is it the same with acid & alkali fix to get the proper time, use a piece of film fix it and watch until it is cleared, and then double the time?
    When using TF-4 it will clear in 15 seconds when fresh, still, fix it for 3 min as recommended to me by Bill Troop.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast


 

APUG PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Contact Us  |  Support Us!  |  Advertise  |  Site Terms  |  Archive  —   Search  |  Mobile Device Access  |  RSS  |  Facebook  |  Linkedin