Switch to English Language Passer en langue française Omschakelen naar Nederlandse Taal Wechseln Sie zu deutschen Sprache Passa alla lingua italiana
Members: 70,536   Posts: 1,544,187   Online: 882
      
Page 3 of 8 FirstFirst 12345678 LastLast
Results 21 to 30 of 73
  1. #21
    DJGainer's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    151
    Images
    25
    Maybe, but the point of using TF4 is to keep the process alkaline throughout, to eliminate shifting the pH of the environment back and forth. I'd be interested to see if anyone else has tried what you just thought of...

  2. #22
    jstraw's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Topeka, Kansas
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    2,703
    Images
    42
    I'm just casting about for a way around running lots of water as a stop-step between dev and fix.
    Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetuer adipiscing elit. In velit arcu, consequat at, interdum sit amet, consequat in, quam.

  3. #23
    jovo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Jacksonville, Florida
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    4,085
    Images
    191
    Quote Originally Posted by Shelly Grimson View Post
    I can't stand wasting water and if I run the tap for 30 to 60 minutes with warm water mixed in to keep the temp around 20 degress, it uses up all the hot water and other household chores can't be done.
    Hmmmm.....I wonder if washing prints is comparable to washing film. Obviously, FB paper is likely to absorb more fixer than film is, which only absorbs it in the emulsion, but might a certain number of water changes suffice for paper? When I wash film I fill, slosh and empty the washer 12 times...period! You can mystify and obfuscate the obvious all you want to, chant secret mantras and dance in a cabalic circle till your feet swell, but the film is completely washed (I have years and years of evidence that this is so)...end of story. Perhaps there's a critical number of exchanges of water that will do the same for paper beyond which one is swatting at shadows, and indulging one's inner anal fussbudget. It would be worth it to save the water albeit it would be much more labor intensive.
    John Voss

    My Blog

  4. #24
    DJGainer's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    151
    Images
    25
    Yes, in my prior post I was quoting the manufacturer's suggestions, but I don't use running water in my darkroom. I fill the tray with water at the beginning, agitate for 60s and then right onto the fix for 60s. I dump the water and refill when it starts getting too yellow from the developer carry-over.

  5. #25

    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Willamette Valley, Oregon
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    3,684
    Quote Originally Posted by Monophoto View Post
    I know that Ansel Adams recommended a
    process similar to what you are suggesting, ...
    Some what similar. He was in the darkroom for about
    50 + years. For a time, IIRC, he used a some what acid
    stop and 1st fix then held. Prints then went into an alkaline
    sodium thiosulfate 2nd fix, Adam's plain fixer, then into a
    selenium + KHCA bath. How he processed prior to the
    50s and the advent of KHCA and KRST I don't know.

    My box of KHCA instructs one to add 71 grams of
    Kodalk to each gallon of KHCA. That is to insure the
    alkaline condition of the print. Adam's used an ALKALINE
    2nd fix and so could get away with a direct transfer to
    the KHCA + KRST bath. That bath combination is short
    lived. If the two are to be used separately the KRST
    can be used many times over. But be sure the print
    is in an alkaline condition; KHCA + Kodalk. Dan

  6. #26
    jstraw's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Topeka, Kansas
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    2,703
    Images
    42
    Quote Originally Posted by DJGainer View Post
    Yes, in my prior post I was quoting the manufacturer's suggestions, but I don't use running water in my darkroom. I fill the tray with water at the beginning, agitate for 60s and then right onto the fix for 60s. I dump the water and refill when it starts getting too yellow from the developer carry-over.

    Ah, ok...I get it now. I'd be quite happy with that.
    Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetuer adipiscing elit. In velit arcu, consequat at, interdum sit amet, consequat in, quam.

  7. #27

    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Oklahoma, USA
    Shooter
    Med. Format RF
    Posts
    680
    I use a 60s water stop in a tray at least one size larger than the print. The water stop is replaced after one 8x10. Prints are fixed in TF-4 and placed in a water hold tray with 4 or 5 dump & fills over 2 hours print session. At the end of the session I selenium tone. Toned prints are rinsed for 5 min before placement into a 10 min HCA bath. Tray wash for 20 min. No stains.
    RJ

  8. #28
    jstraw's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Topeka, Kansas
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    2,703
    Images
    42
    Does this procedure seem viable?:

    2min - Zone VI developer
    1min - water-stop
    2min - TF4
    2min - 3oz Selenium/61oz HCA
    holding tray till wash
    archival wash (procedure to be determined)
    Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetuer adipiscing elit. In velit arcu, consequat at, interdum sit amet, consequat in, quam.

  9. #29

    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    227
    I use ilford rapid fix at 1+9 and fix for 2 minutes, then transfer directly to the hypoclear for 10 minutes, then into water for anywhere from 5 minutes on up, and then directly to the selenium. never had any staining problems and my selenium toner lasts months and months. i think washing your prints to completion before is a bit of a waste of time - after all selenium toner has fixer in it, why wash it all out just to put it back in and have to wash all over again?

  10. #30
    MurrayMinchin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    North Coast, BC, Canada
    Shooter
    4x5 Format
    Posts
    4,195
    Images
    15
    Quote Originally Posted by rjas View Post
    i think washing your prints to completion before is a bit of a waste of time - after all selenium toner has fixer in it, why wash it all out just to put it back in and have to wash all over again?
    Eegad...you've opened a big-old skanky can-o-worms now

    To make TF-3 I order ammonium thiosulfate in a 60% solution and it smells pretty bad, but stock solution Kodak Rapid Selenium Toner (KRST) smells so heinous it'll snap your head back, so I figure it must be richer than 50% ammonium thiosulfate...otherwise known as rapid fix. Gasps of Horror!

    jstraw...giving advice on such little information (what paper, what dilution, etc, etc, etc.) the only thing I would suggest is going with a two bath fix.

    Check with Photographers Formulary for how many times, and for how many square inches of paper the first fix can be used before it's discarded, and then how many times the second fix can become the first fix before you have to mix up a completely new first and second fix.

    If that last paragraph is the least bit confusing, check with the Formulary and all should be explained. (Waaaay too technical for me).

    Murray
    Last edited by MurrayMinchin; 02-05-2007 at 11:35 PM. Click to view previous post history. Reason: It's late
    _________________________________________
    Note to self: Turn your negatives into positives.

Page 3 of 8 FirstFirst 12345678 LastLast


 

APUG PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Contact Us  |  Support Us!  |  Advertise  |  Site Terms  |  Archive  —   Search  |  Mobile Device Access  |  RSS  |  Facebook  |  Linkedin