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  1. #21
    jstraw's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Curt View Post
    I bought this extra Beseler 45 head to convert to a 5x7 and if I were to actually use a cold light head on it I would want to do split grade filtering. I have some heads, 4x5, 5x7, and 8x10. and the Aristo D2 on the 45m in my darkroom. They are all made by Aristo. I'm under the weather; can you tell me again what the reason for removing the top bellows, which is not used with cold light heads? Oh my I just answered my own question. A filter box goes there! I was thinking the upper bellows was under the negative holder. Duh! That sounds like about the only way to do it neatly. I don't have a glass holder, did I hear that someone had one in use with this filter system and is is necessary? This Beseler head part is for design/cutting/destruction/prototype purposes as I don't want to go to town on my working enlarger.

    What is needed is a 1/2 inch box of similar perimeter dimensions of the top bellows with slots or rectangular openings for a filter holder that will hold the filters and is light tight and allows the filters to easily slide into the the light path. Am I getting it right?
    You just did all of my posting for me! You took the pics, you did the explaining!

    Yep the problem is that the upper bellows is not easily removable. It would have to be cut out of its frame. Yes, I'd be building a box with a drwaer for filtration that would be a direct replacement for the contracted, upper bellows. If I could get my hands on a second upper bellows assembly drom a beater enlarger to modify, I'd do it but I'm not going to cut the bellows out of my current assembly.
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  2. #22
    Steve Sherman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jstraw View Post
    Yep the problem is that the upper bellows is not easily removable. It would have to be cut out of its frame.
    The upper and lower metal supports holding the upper bellows are completely removed and could be saved so that all could be restored to orginal if one wanted.
    Real Photographs are Born Wet !
    http://www.steve-sherman.com

  3. #23
    jstraw's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Sherman View Post
    The upper and lower metal supports holding the upper bellows are completely removed and could be saved so that all could be restored to orginal if one wanted.
    What I'm envisioning is having the upper and lower supports for the upper bellows hold the box with the drawer, instead of holding the bellows. This would be ideal if the bellows could be removed from the supports easily, without damage but it looks like it's glued in place. I'd canibalize a second upper bellows assembly if I could get my hands on one but I'm not willing to damage the one that I've got.
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  4. #24

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    Revived old thread alert:

    I have a bit of confusion going on at the moment. I have been using a D2HI cold light on my 45MX, it has a strong blue-green cast, not overly blue, but kind of in the middle. I thought was getting decent contrast but in buying a second, new condition D2 lamp for lower light output and backup, the thing is straight up white, no color cast at all, the seller bought it new in 93, so I bet it is the updated V54 ( thank god ).

    So do I have the old W45 lamp in my D2HI or the new V54? I have no idea. Also, where does one source a 40ccy gel? I looked at the list of Rosco ones at B&H and even called Rosco, they had no way of converting 40CCY to their standard of CTO. I have a feeling that my D2HI is the older lamp, so I will want to filter it when used…
    Last edited by PKM-25; 03-07-2012 at 01:15 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  5. #25
    ic-racer's Avatar
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    This is how my bulb was marked:


    This is the yellow filter I used (it is 30cc):
    Last edited by ic-racer; 03-07-2012 at 04:09 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  6. #26
    ic-racer's Avatar
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    BTW the yellow filter it is to spread the effect of the filters out. Otherwise the difference from #3 to #5 is small with not much change in between. What kind of problems are you having with your contrast control?

  7. #27

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    That's the kooky thing about it, I don't know if I am having contrast issues or not. If I print straight no filter and then using a grade 2 VC filter, I get slightly more contrast, deeper blacks with the filter, but not by a huge amount. The lamp has no stamp on it, is white but output is green-blue, like this guy's. He just replied to a PM and said that his is the newer V54, I bet mine is too then.

    Where did you get the gel, any CTO number or other reference?

    I have an RH Designs Stop Clock Vario on order that I will install with either the new, white / low output D2 head, or the D2HI, so I might see differences in contrast then, but I am not printing anymore until I get this stuff nailed down a bit more.
    Last edited by PKM-25; 03-07-2012 at 05:08 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  8. #28
    ic-racer's Avatar
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    That gel is Rosco #4530 which is described as 30cc Yellow. It came from B&H.

    Any difference between no-filter and #2 filter probably does not indicate much.

    Best way to determine contrast issues is with a (non-calibrated) 21 step wedge which you should be able to get for less than $20

    With your step wedge you would contact print it on your paper under each filter setting. You can estimate the ISO(R) (contrast) by counting the number of gray bands that show with each filtration level (throwing out the just-gray and just-black bands) and multiplying by 15. This will let you know if you get maximum and minimum contrast. Also, you can see if the spacing between the Ilford filter grades bunches up at the high end.

    BTW you can do the testing with just the lamp heads, the Ilford filters and little strips of paper. You can test all the filters against each head, with and without the yellow filter. You would then choose the head (with or without filter) that has the contrast grades evenly spaced out and has a middle gray showing on the same step on every one of the numbered filters.
    Last edited by ic-racer; 03-07-2012 at 06:17 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  9. #29
    RalphLambrecht's Avatar
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    the idea behind split-grade printing is oo mix two exposure,sone very soft,the other very hard.so whatever it takes to get those contrst extremes from you light source will be ok.
    Regards

    Ralph W. Lambrecht
    www.darkroomagic.comrorrlambrec@ymail.com[/URL]
    www.waybeyondmonochrome.com

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