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  1. #11
    chrisf's Avatar
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    I was wondering how you guys are printing your dr5 chromes? I recently bought a 120 folder and was thinking about sending this film through dr5.

    chris

  2. #12
    David A. Goldfarb's Avatar
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    I haven't done this yet, but I was thinking of trying it with medium format so I can make enlarged negs for albumen printing from the chromes.
    flickr--http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidagoldfarb/
    Photography (not as up to date as the flickr site)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com/photo
    Academic (Slavic and Comparative Literature)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com

  3. #13
    dr5chrome's Avatar
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    we haven't done too much testing with the lucky film. we have had a few clients test it however. you can shoot it at it's factory speed, 100iso. it runs a little on the flat side but id fairly responsive.

    the FOMA 200 is a very nice film! the quality is between that of TMAX100 & DELTA 100. a T grain film is very sharp for a 200 speed and you would shoot it @ 200iso normal. it is sharper than Scala but flatter, making it easier to produce enlarged negs and scans.

    neopan400 and DELTA-400 have a unique look. i would only recommend these films if you were looking for an unusual looking film. NEO400 can only be run as sepia [cant go neutral]. both have a normal of 200 in dr5.

    if you need speed use HP5. it has the best EI range in the process and holds quality to 1600 iso.

    CIBAchromes produce great quality from dr5 chromes. most of our client base go straight to scan however. the chromes are much easier to scan than negs.

    DG; we have had many new clients use dr5 for this purpose, to loose a generation when making negs for contact printing. we have also seen a big increase in interpositives. you expose the large film and we run it,, a big neg from your original negs. we have had clients send us prints from this procedure, not less than spectacular quality.

    thanks for the support over the years Rick!

    dw


    www.dr5.com


    Quote Originally Posted by 3Dfan View Post
    In the case of foma 200 (the only film I've had the chance to test in dr5 so far), it runs at 200 in dr5 in spite of the fact that it is normally considered a 125 speed negative film in normal developers. So some films gain rather than lose speed in dr5.

    Since this thread has Mr. Wood's attention, I'd like to ask a few questions myself. At what speed should I rate lucky 100 for a test? I'd also like to try another normal 200 speed film, how does the grain of foma 200 compare with neopan 400 and delta 400? Thanks.

  4. #14

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    That tells me what I need to know. I'll focus my next round of testing on HP5 and FP4. I can definitely vouch that the foma 200 looks great in your process. It makes for nice stereo slides.

  5. #15

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    dr5chrome, off the subject, what prevents some films like Acros or APX 400 from being successfully developed in DR5?

  6. #16
    dr5chrome's Avatar
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    ..i am not 100% certain on the acros. we have only determined that it has some layer in it that prevents the bleach step from working. its a shame, it's a nice film as a neg.

    dw



    Quote Originally Posted by MMfoto View Post
    dr5chrome, off the subject, what prevents some films like Acros or APX 400 from being successfully developed in DR5?

  7. #17

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    Since bleach is involved in the process, is there a way to do a bleach free process? The reason I ask is that there is a unique look possible with some motion picture films when doing a bleach free run, though the only examples I have seen were colour. The television show 24 uses a bleach free processing effect for many of their scenes, especially the night shots, in case anyone is wondering about the effect.

    Ciao!

    Gordon Moat
    A G Studio

  8. #18
    Photo Engineer's Avatar
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    Bleach free processes are only useful for negative color. Reversal processes of any type suffer badly (color or B&W) from the lack of a bleach.

    PE

  9. #19

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    The information I read on motion picture films is that the bleach free step could be done on the negative or the print.

    http://www.kodak.com/US/en/motion/ne...l2002/kt.shtml
    http://www.kodak.com/US/en/motion/su....15.4.14&lc=en

    Seems there is less risk doing the bleach free (or bleach bypass) on the print than on the negative. I have also heard this from a handful of cinematographers that I know have tried this processing. Obviously the results will not be as realistic.

    Ciao!

    Gordon Moat
    A G Studio

  10. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by HerrBremerhaven View Post
    The information I read on motion picture films is that the bleach free step could be done on the negative or the print.

    http://www.kodak.com/US/en/motion/ne...l2002/kt.shtml
    http://www.kodak.com/US/en/motion/su....15.4.14&lc=en

    Seems there is less risk doing the bleach free (or bleach bypass) on the print than on the negative. I have also heard this from a handful of cinematographers that I know have tried this processing. Obviously the results will not be as realistic.

    Ciao!

    Gordon Moat
    A G Studio

    Yes, as PE said...only works with the Negative color process...which would include the negative, or the print....the Negative color process.

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