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  1. #21
    Michel Hardy-Vallée's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by iserious View Post
    David,

    Well I'm glad to be on the right track. I think I'll throw the dice and pick up a small pack of this Freestyle film. I'd like to play with it and see what happens. As for the contrast issue, it's actually very interesting that you mentioned that. The Freestyle film has a practically vertical curve! I was thinking I'd have to tweak the contrast OUT of it! But then again, I don't know how going from one generation to another affects contrast. So I'm glad you pointed it out.
    The basic formula is Final contrast = contrast1 x contrast2. Let's say you use the gamma measurements. Your target gamma for a positive transparency image is 1.5; a normal negative for paper printing has a gamma around 0.6. You thus need a positive film that can achieve a gamma of 2.5 (1.5/0.6=2.5), so ortho films are in the right ballpark. If you can find a spec sheet for the film you're using, look at the time-gamma curve. It will give you a good starting time for development.

    I've done transparencies with 35mm contact-printed on movie print film developed in print developer, and it works pretty well. Your process is more or less the same, but with a larger target size.
    Using film since before it was hip.


    "One of the most singular characters of the hyposulphites, is the property their solutions possess of dissolving muriate of silver and retaining it in considerable quantity in permanent solution" — Sir John Frederick William Herschel, "On the Hyposulphurous Acid and its Compounds." The Edinburgh Philosophical Journal, Vol. 1 (8 Jan. 1819): 8-29. p. 11

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  2. #22

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    hi daniel

    mrfoto1 knows quite a bit about color separation negatives.
    might be worth just asking if his film works for that and
    "picking his brain".

    the film you fell into at photowarehouse is for duping (single step) film.
    it is VERY slow ( like azo + floodlight ) and will not like to be enlarged upon.
    it also gives a blue hue that might be distracting if you want to display it.


    good luck!

    -john
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  3. #23
    stormbytes's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Neal View Post
    You may want to consider coating a sheet of glass with liquid emulsion, or using one of the RA-4 clear display materials. I would start with the liquid emulsion as I'm just plain cheap.
    Either you're a genius or I'm a complete moron (i'm betting on the latter). That's a GREAT idea! I even have a bottle of Liquid Light that I picked up from Rockland a few months back.

    Liquid Light would work I take it? (coated on glass)

    I'd ask for coating tips but I take it it's probably covered in MANY other threads

    Keep the amazing tips coming! I will be sure to post results as soon as I actually get off my rear and do this
    -
    Daniel

  4. #24
    stormbytes's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by smieglitz View Post

    Another option might be Freestyle's premium APH orthochromatic halftone film. It is available in a large variety of sizes and will give results varying from extremly high contrast posterized results with standard AB litho developers to continuous tone results with extremely diluted paper developers (e.g., Dektol 1+20). Check this link also for info on Dave Soemarko's LC-1 developer formula for contone results with the APH film:

    http://members.aol.com/fotodave/Articles/LC-1.html
    I've actually pretty much decided on trying Freestyle's stuff. The contrast control was on my mind the moment I saw the practically-vertical curve they post in their specs pdf. I will give the link a look-see and undoubtedly have fun playing with the stuff!
    -
    Daniel

  5. #25
    stormbytes's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by richard ide View Post
    Check out item #7617421028 from mrfoto. 24" x 30". Not sure if it is neg/pos or neg/neg but cannot beat the price. I don't think you want a film with a near vertical curve as it is very high contrast.

    As an after thought, you would have to make a negative from a transparency first on pan film to enlarge from and possibly an unsharp mask for contrast control

    Richard
    Richard,

    I emailed the seller and will certainly consider this film. Apparently he's got two different types (if I understood his description correctly - his auction format is a bit distracting i find, anyhow...) The cost of shipping is, at least by my standards, prohibitively expensive. But the guy's in PA and I'm presently in NYC. I'm hoping local pickup will be an option. As for the high contrast (the Freestyle stuff), I'm told there are developers out there specifically designed to yield continuous tone. I think I'm going to dabble in quite a bit of this stuff - different films, developers and even hand-coating glass as someone on this thread suggested earlier.

    It's a lot of fun to stray from the norm (the norm being paper). I've also had nothing but intrigue from people with whom I've shared this idea of presenting transprencies (vs. traditional paper prints) as a final product.

    I can't thank you enough for your contributions. Trekking in the unchartered (relatively speaking of course) is always a throw of the dice, but I gotta admit - It's fun!
    -
    Daniel

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Donald Miller View Post
    If you are wanting to take a camera negative to an enlarged positive, then I would suggest that you look into APHS film. This film is a halftone film that I have used for masking and also for making enlarged negatives (requires an intermediary step beyond what you want to do).
    I've got some on order with Freestyle, could you please elaborate on what exactly "halftone" is? (as opposed to..?)

    Quote Originally Posted by Donald Miller View Post
    I have used dektol in dilutions that range from 1-30 for unsharp masks to 1-10 for continuous tone negatives of normal density.
    I keep hearing the term "unsharp mask". I'm only acquianted with it as pertains to <gasp!> photoshop. I know it must stem from some traditional process. Would you be willing to elaborate on this subject? Does it yield the same results as its digital counterpart? (namely.. sharpening images)
    -
    Daniel

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