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  1. #1
    Mike Té's Avatar
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    Kodalith Fine Line developer

    Hi.

    I'm preparing to attempt my first lith prints. I have a couple of packages of Kodalith Fine Line developer from who-knows-when, A and B in powdered form.

    Is this a product that will work?

    I'm reading through Tim Rudman's 2 books again (already read them once cover to cover); he mentions Kodalith Super RT among other brands.

    Cheers.
    Michael Robert Taylor
    Ottawa

    I wish I'D said that.... Bartlett

    http://www.apug.org/gallery1/browsei...imageuser=7358

  2. #2
    richard ide's Avatar
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    Hi
    It should work. Originally it was intended to enhance the adjacency effect by not agitating the developer/film once the image appeared on lith film. Be advised it has a very short tray life when A & B are mixed. It was used for enhancing negative contrast of low contrast original documents.
    Richard

    Why are there no speaker jacks on a stereo camera?

  3. #3
    Mike Té's Avatar
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    Thanks, Richard.

    I do have another question.

    I don't have any of the "best" papers; I have some Forte Polygrade RC WT (semi-matt) for my first trial efforts. Would any of my other papers be worth trying out at another time?

    -Ilford MG RC regular (glossy, pearl, semi-matt), WT (glossy, pearl, semi-matt), CT (pearl), portfolio
    -Ilford MG FB regular
    -Ilfobrom G3 FB Galerie
    -Agfa Multicontrast glossy and semi-matt
    -Forte Polygrade RC CT
    -Cachet Multibrom VC-FB matt

    Cheers from blowy-chilly Ottawa.
    Michael Robert Taylor
    Ottawa

    I wish I'D said that.... Bartlett

    http://www.apug.org/gallery1/browsei...imageuser=7358

  4. #4
    richard ide's Avatar
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    Hi again
    Sorry, I can't answer that. I have not tried lith printing with enlarging papers.

    Nice weather we are having.
    Richard

    Why are there no speaker jacks on a stereo camera?

  5. #5

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    AGFA MCC

    I have had great success with AGFA MCC, with Lodalith RT and LD20

  6. #6

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    oops

    Of course I meant Kodalith

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by tmike View Post
    Thanks, Richard.

    I do have another question.

    I don't have any of the "best" papers; I have some Forte Polygrade RC WT (semi-matt) for my first trial efforts. Would any of my other papers be worth trying out at another time?

    -Ilford MG RC regular (glossy, pearl, semi-matt), WT (glossy, pearl, semi-matt), CT (pearl), portfolio
    -Ilford MG FB regular
    -Ilfobrom G3 FB Galerie
    -Agfa Multicontrast glossy and semi-matt
    -Forte Polygrade RC CT
    -Cachet Multibrom VC-FB matt

    Cheers from blowy-chilly Ottawa.
    I agree with Richard's assessment that it was designed to copy originals of poor contrast as opposed to RT for high contrast graphic arts originals. I have a lot of it and have asked Tim Rudman and others about it. So far no one is familiar with it but I have too much of it to ignore. It does not give as colorful results as Champion Novalith for example but will give pink highlights on Polywarmtone grudgingly at 1+1+12.
    I am unable so far to get salmon colour on Fomatone, but switching to a Formaldehyde developer at 1+1+40 gives easy pink colour.
    I dont think any of the papers you list will give pinkish colours but nice browns should be obtainable.
    Mark
    Mark Layne
    Nova Scotia
    and Barbados

  8. #8

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    And would you Ottawa people kindly stop dumping your excess snow in my driveway!
    Mark
    Mark Layne
    Nova Scotia
    and Barbados

  9. #9
    Mike Té's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Layne View Post
    And would you Ottawa people kindly stop dumping your excess snow in my driveway!
    Mark
    Ha! LOL. Minus 27 C here this morning, despite the warming effect of parliament.

    Thanks for the answers, guys; quite specific and just what I was looking for.

    I didn't get a chance to try printing last evening. All the preparatories kept me busy; change the safelight filter to red (probably not necessary for the Forte), FIND a couple of jugs that will hold a gallon each, find containers for the chemicals already in those jugs, wash, mix, pour, wash, the usual. Enlarger and negative set up. I finally got ready to print at about a quarter to 11 last evening and decided to wait; I'd not taken the Forte out of the fridge.

    Back at it today.

    Cheers.
    Michael Robert Taylor
    Ottawa

    I wish I'D said that.... Bartlett

    http://www.apug.org/gallery1/browsei...imageuser=7358

  10. #10
    Mike Té's Avatar
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    Well, I got some printing done...

    I actually managed to have some success...

    Quite a variable process. I'm surprised.

    I started with the Forte Polywarmtone RC papers and fond that the shadows printed very dark, leaving the midtones undeveloped. Colour was pretty black.

    I had the best success with the Agfa MCC RC, to my surprise. Midtones showed up before shadows were too dense. Dark cocoa brown.

    I tried Ilford RC WT last and the colour was promising, warmer with a slight pink tinge to the brown.

    I was amazed at how variable the process was. A batch of developer (1+1+12) would do 2 or 3 prints, developing time getting markedly longer for each subsequent print in the same mix. To get through a dozen papers, I had to mix developer 4 times. 5 of those papers wouldn't proceed to complete development, stalling at about 8 minutes and remaining that way. The fastest development was in my last batch (1+1+1 of exhausted developer+10 water).

    Nowhere did I see infectious development; no runaway trains. I was actually hoping to see it. I'll leave the last batch of developer out to see just how brown it gets...

    I should be posting up my examples, but that would mean that I'd have to learn how to use the scanner tonight. I already have a brain cramp from speeding around those learning curves.
    Michael Robert Taylor
    Ottawa

    I wish I'D said that.... Bartlett

    http://www.apug.org/gallery1/browsei...imageuser=7358

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