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  1. #11
    eclarke's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mick Fagan View Post
    I do everything that EC does, but I place the print onto a sheet of glass and lean it on the sink wall at about 60 degree angle, that way the print is stable and you have no problems with the print being strained or even damaged, by being handled continuously by gloved hands.

    Mick.
    I'm old and senile..I put mine vertically on a sheet of white acrylic and have some backlight so I can see what is going on. I also keep a good squeegee available to wipe it and see what is happening..EC

  2. #12
    KenM's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ed Sukach View Post
    Shouldn't the print be re-fixed after the bleaching?
    Re-read my message. It's in there.
    Cheers!

    -klm.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by eclarke View Post
    I'm old and senile..
    No argument here - Gramps.
    Cheers!

    -klm.

  4. #14
    eclarke's Avatar
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    "I learned this technique from Bruce Barnbaum - if you pick up his How-To book, a full description of how he bleaches is contained therein, along with a lot of other very useful information.

    Good luck!
    __________________
    Cheers!

    -klm. "

    This book is a Must Have book...EC

  5. #15
    jovo's Avatar
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    Hmmmm.....I'm surprised that Ryan has gotten poor results with Ilford papers. I've always had success bleaching MGIV FB. Although it responds slowly to a weak solution, it can indeed get away from you if you're not vigilant, but I've never experienced a stain. Do your local bleaching before toning, though, because staining is much more likely after toning unless the print has been very thoroughly washed.

    I use a clear plexi cutting board to work on in the sink with a hose of running water just below the site I'm bleaching. I first dip a Q-tip in fixer, and then the other end in the bleach and paint it on, washing it all off frequently to check results and then, if needed, repeat the above until I'm happy with it.
    John Voss

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  6. #16
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    All great advice. I may use a Q-tip, plus a spray bottle with water.

    Now in the case of this particular print, in which I want to lighten a dark area so that it's more uniform with the background, would Farmer's Reducer be better than potassium ferricyanide alone?
    Paul

  7. #17
    david b's Avatar
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    Get a copy of Bruce Barnbaums book "the art of photography".

    there is a section about bleaching and I think it's a good book to have around.

  8. #18
    KenM's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jovo View Post
    Hmmmm.....I'm surprised that Ryan has gotten poor results with Ilford papers. I've always had success bleaching MGIV FB. Although it responds slowly to a weak solution, it can indeed get away from you if you're not vigilant, but I've never experienced a stain. Do your local bleaching before toning, though, because staining is much more likely after toning unless the print has been very thoroughly washed.
    What Ilford paper John? In the past, I tried bleaching Ilford multigrade (not the warmtone), and didn't have much success. Don Kirby successfully bleaches Ilford paper, but he mixes some fix with the bleach - this of course shortens the life of the bleach, so you have to remix some bleach after about 15 minutes.

    I'm interested, since my supply of Forte is running out, and eventually, I'll have to migrate to another paper. I haven't tried Kentmere FB, but I hear that is can be bleached...

    I will say, I've seen some very interesting effects from bleaching after selenium toning - the bleached area takes on a warmer yellowish tone (on Forte, anyway) , which when used correctly, can lend an almost hand-colored look to a BW print. I haven't tried it, but still - interesting to know.
    Cheers!

    -klm.

  9. #19
    jovo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KenM View Post
    What Ilford paper John? In the past, I tried bleaching Ilford multigrade (not the warmtone), and didn't have much success. Don Kirby successfully bleaches Ilford paper, but he mixes some fix with the bleach - this of course shortens the life of the bleach, so you have to remix some bleach after about 15 minutes.
    Ken, as I wrote above, I dip the Q-tip in fix, rub it on the to-be-bleached area, and then use the other end of the tip which is loaded with bleach. The two never mix except on the paper so I can keep the bleach going forever. (Actually, I bought a bottle of the stuff from PF, mixed up a batch from a little bit of the dry powder, stored that solution in a brown glass bottle and haven't finished that first batch to this day....after two years of not infrequent use. Barnbaum also states that it lasts forever if I recall correctly.)

    As to the paper, as also stated above, it's MGIV FB glossy.
    John Voss

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  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by jovo View Post
    Ken, as I wrote above, I dip the Q-tip in fix, rub it on the to-be-bleached area, and then use the other end of the tip which is loaded with bleach. The two never mix except on the paper so I can keep the bleach going forever. (Actually, I bought a bottle of the stuff from PF, mixed up a batch from a little bit of the dry powder, stored that solution in a brown glass bottle and haven't finished that first batch to this day....after two years of not infrequent use. Barnbaum also states that it lasts forever if I recall correctly.)

    As to the paper, as also stated above, it's MGIV FB glossy.
    Interesting, thanks. That's a neat technique.

    I mentioned in my note above that I rinse the print after pulling it from the fix. With Forte this works really well. I wonder if I avoided the rinse it would bleach easier? Probably, but I would have to be more careful with the bleach...

    I'll cross that bridge when I get to it, I guess.
    Cheers!

    -klm.

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