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  1. #21

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    Quote Originally Posted by KenM View Post

    I learned this technique from Bruce Barnbaum - if you pick up his How-To book, a full description of how he bleaches is contained therein, along with a lot of other very useful information.

    Good luck!
    btw. is it known which paper barnbaum uses?

  2. #22
    KenM's Avatar
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    Forte PG V. He's not happy, for obvious reasons.
    Cheers!

    -klm.

  3. #23
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    I have used iodine before to get fid of black dots or diluted over a larger area (don't worry the stain disappears in the fix). It is a rather powerful bleach though so be warned. You could also use a cupric sulfate bleach, as well as the others mentioned, but I personally don't have any experience with that one. I thought I would mention the iodine because it is readily available at almost any drug store.

    If you overdo it with any bleach (except the fix containing bleaches) simply put the print back in the developer and start over.

    Patrick

  4. #24

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    You don't want to tone before bleaching your prints.

    I believe that even Bruce says that Ilford MG does not bleach very well and stains easy. Like I said, I only print on AZO which bleaches fine, and the one time I experimented with Ilford...it stained easy.

    I use a set of the japanese Hack brushes, in very small sizes.

  5. #25

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    Cupric sulfate is great for complete bleaching and redevelopment, but I can never get it as even as ferricyanide for local or partial bleaching.

    That's a good point about redevelopment: I don't know why a person would use a bleach without a halide in it, so if it goes too far you can always bring it back.

  6. #26

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    Bruce Barnbaum mentions that if you go too far you can immerse the print in developer to partially restore the image. This works if you haven't yet immersed it in fixer.

    In his B&W Master Printing Class (Photo Techniques), he describes using the process directly on the negative. I've used it to correct 8X10 negatives, and it sure makes contact printing alot easier.
    van Huyck Photo
    "Progress is only a direction, and it's often the wrong direction"

  7. #27
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    I'm still hoping someone will explain the difference between using potassium ferrocyanide alone versus using Farmer's Reducer.
    Paul

  8. #28

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    Paul, I believe Farmer's reducer has hypo in it. Plain potassium ferricyanide will desolve the silver in the emulsion, but you need the fixer to get it off the paper and into solution. This is my understanding, but the only bleaches I ever use have a halide. Otherwise, when it's gone, it's gone!

  9. #29
    KenM's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ryan McIntosh View Post
    You don't want to tone before bleaching your prints.
    Bruce has at least one print where he bleaches after toning, to get the color change. It's certainly not something he does on every print....
    Cheers!

    -klm.

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