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  1. #11
    lee
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    wasn't the two bath developer mainly aimed at graded papers? The idea is that you can reduce the contrast grade to get "half"grades from graded paper. Seems to me with VC paper and split printing you can do the same thing. I could be wrong.\



    lee

  2. #12
    ann
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    You can also take the two developers and combine them into one tray, which may give better control. Many folks like to use this combo even with todays papers.
    The split development can also open shadows in an interesting fashion. This method was used frequently with graded papers but can still be useful with VC.
    My dealer said they wouldn't be surprised about Selectol as they don't sell much; however Beers can certainly take up the void or as someone else suggested the Formulary may already have a version. I have a formula somewhere in the files that is "suppose" to be Selectol; quess i better drag it out .
    http://www.aclancyphotography.com

  3. #13

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    Lee,

    as soon as you select a filter and expose your VC paper, you have in effect assigned that paper a gradation. Even if you use for example a 2 1/2 filter, by using the 2 bath development method, you can further influence the tonality of the paper.

    As for split toning, I do not have much experience in this area, but I don't think that split toning can be used a reliable source for influencing the shadow detail or over all contrast in a print, atleast not in a way that could be repeatable on a consistant basis.
    - William Levitt

  4. #14

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    </span><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (erose54 @ Nov 21 2002, 11:44 AM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'>"...a technique where you use two different concentrations of developer. &nbsp;One would be normal strenghth and the other very diluted." </td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
    I&#39;ve the same in mind as I am switching to graded paper and a lighter
    brighter darkroom. You may be suprised how the choice of paper can
    make a darkroom out of a DARKroom.

    An article in Camer and Darkroom, seven or eight years ago, expands
    upon the subject. After years of using this and that developer he
    settled on a Zone IV. In one example he used full strenght for 20sec.
    then 1+4 to finish. He genuinely felt it a good practice. Dan

  5. #15

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    I often use a two bath development combination of ansco 130 & 120 developers in separate trays to control contrast with ilford galerie. This method gives a lot of flexibility
    with only one grade of paper ( #2 ). One can also get improved tonal separation from some negs by printing on a higher contrast grade and using only the soft working developer. Or conversely using a softer paper and ansco 130 undiluted or 1+1.
    I assume this would be useful for multigrade users also.




  6. #16
    lee
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    As for split toning, I do not have much experience in this area, but I don&#39;t think that split toning can be used a reliable source for influencing the shadow detail or over all contrast in a print, atleast not in a way that could be repeatable on a consistant basis.

    William,
    What I was refering to was not split toning but Split Filter Printing. I have an Aristo VCL 4500 that I mounted on D-2 and time exposures with a Metrolux II timer. I use the blue light for the shadows and the green light for the highlights. Everything I print is controlled like that and is very repeatable. I am just not sure that two bath developing is relavent to VC paper. Graded papers yes, but the caveat is graded paper is getting harder and harder to find and the choices are getting fewer and fewer. I wish it weren&#39;t true as I definately loved Agfa Broveria.

    lee/c

  7. #17

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    Sorry Lee, my mistake.
    - William Levitt

  8. #18

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    Lee

    your split filter printing is more commonly known as SPLIT GRADE PRINTING and is known widely in Europe in this way.
    A German company called Heiland make a split grade printing system which is tailor made to your individual enlarger which is very good but is very expensive.

  9. #19
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    I&#39;ve been using a two developer regime for a couple months now with MG-IV Warmtone Fibre.

    Dev 1: D-73 (2:1). A hard developer to get the &#39;bite&#39; in the shadows. Usually about 20 - 30 seconds.

    Water Bath - sometimes, of about 1 min to let the D-73 max out. Other times just right into Dev 2.

    Dev 2: Selectrol Soft - home brew. A ratio of 9:1 for anywhere from 5 minutes to 30 minutes.

    I find the hard developer in first position sets a deep black and will carry up into the greys as long as I want it to. The 2nd dev will bring the highlights down to meet the Black where I want it to.

    The system is entirely judgemental, proving once again there is no one way to make a print.

  10. #20

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    Yes Bruce,

    That&#39;s the same way my 2 bath development as well.

    I had read in The Print (A.A) that he also used a 2 bath development every once in awhile, but he used Selectol Soft FIRST, then Dektol. So I thought, heck, if Ansel does it that way, I&#39; should atleast give it a try. All I got outof the excercise were some pretty muddy looking prints, and that was from negatives that I had previously printed with great suscess using the harder developer as the first bath.


    - William Levitt

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