|
|
|
-
 Originally Posted by laverdure
Tom,
Why do you suppose you got such quick (4-5m) results where most of us who posted in the last thread on this subject came in at around 20 minutes? It was the amount of time involved, rather than quality issues, which made me give up my own tentative research.
I don't really know. I'm certainly not a skilled printer. (I only just bought my enlarger on ebay in March. I've done 200 prints tops... and not one that I consider fully toned) I read the previous thread when I first started investigating Caffenol printing, but I decided to give it a shot anyway. I used the straight Caffenol recipe - 4 tsp Folger's, 2 tsp Washing soda, 8 oz water. (no vitamin C buffer) Also, because I'm cheap, I used a water rinse between developing and stop bath, as Caffenol makes an awful mess in your trays.
I'd be very interested in seeing results from others.
By the way, the reason I chose to print with Caffenol instead of developing my film is that I figured that I was likely to mess everything up. You can always re-print; you can't always repeat a shot.
Cheers,
Tom, on Point Pelee, Canada
Ansel Adams had the Zone System... I'm working on the points system. First I points it here, and then I points it there...
http://tom-overton-images.weebly.com
-
Thanks, Tom, your results are really interesting. I'll have to give it another shot one of these days.
-
Is it a bad idea to use one stainless steel 35/120 tank for all your developers? (can you get one clean enough after using Caffenol?)
How about a plastic drum? Someone told me Caffenol prefers less a stationary development posture to drum/tube because of the short life and oxidization. But someone else's practice may be more interesting than someone else's theory.
Thanks
|
|