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  1. #11

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    [QUOTES=jstraw;473126]
    "...... you let the fixer stop the development ....."

    Me too.

    " ..... the stop became a superfluous step."

    Same here. I've though a one-shot advantage. Dan

  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by RobertT View Post
    Hi all - FYI - Forgot to add, wash time (water @ 68 F) was AT LEAST 15 minutes.

    Robert
    I am sure this part of the instructions is wrong. RC paper needs 2-5 mins at most. Some will say 2 mins is enough. I've even seen 1 min being quoted.

    pentaxuser

  3. #13
    m. dowdall's Avatar
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    Fixed the fixer

    After posting here, Robert contacted me about his problem and he got back into the darkroom today to re-fix his prints in fresh fixer. Some good prints of a lovely little girl made by a very proud grandfather.

    As I am the darkroom monitor (though hardly a guru) I feel I need reply to the questions people posted regarding the processing times he used. In the darkroom I have posted a list of the recommended times to process RC, FB and film which Robert followed.

    The developer used is Ansco 130 mixed 1+1. The tests that I have done showed that 1 minute for RC gives good blacks in the shadows without the highlights becoming veiled.

    The fix time is right off of the Ilford Rapid Fix bottle when mixed 1+4.

    The wash time is very long for RC. The reason for this is the fix is used over and over again though it is never used to exhaustion. But want people’s prints to get as much of fix out as possible. In the more than 4 years that I have taken care of the darkroom I have yet to see a print damaged from too much washing, none have split.

    Michael

  4. #14
    gainer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dancqu View Post
    Maybe. I've read posts saying it is a sulfite. Dan
    It may be either one as far as the chlorine is concerned.

    My fixer is TF4, which is practically neutral. I usually go straight from developer into fix, at least for work prints. If a snip of undeveloped film fails to clear within 30 seconds I know the fixer is getting weak. Lest you be horrified, I use a rinse between developer and fixer for archival prints. I have heard it's not necessary, and maybe not even good to use acidic stop with TF4.

    No print I have ever jerked from the developer before completion has been good. I do not need the stop bath to stop development of the image. If the print has begun to fog, it's too late to stop it.
    Gadget Gainer

  5. #15

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    [QUOTES=gainer;475900]
    "My fixer is TF4, which is practically neutral."

    What happened to spoon up a fresh fix? I've even been pushing that!

    "I usually go straight from developer into fix, at least for work prints."

    Like wise. Save for deliberate tests all my prints are of long LE.

    "If a snip of undeveloped film fails to clear within 30 seconds
    I know the fixer is getting weak. Lest you be horrified, I use a
    rinse between developer and fixer for archival prints."

    I can pass on the testing and rinse. The one-shot fix I use is
    established to exceed minimums then used with assurance.

    "I do not need the stop bath to stop development of the image."

    Like wise. Dan

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