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  1. #11
    juan's Avatar
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    I use fiberglass screens behind my negatives when developing in tubes. I wonder if similar screens would be useful in removing prints from tubes?
    juan

  2. #12

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    A couple of ideas on design. First your idea of 8 inch tube is good. I would take a strip of 1/4 inch thickness acrylic and using a table saw cut the strip to the appropriate width with an bevel to the inside of the tube this would be glued to the inside of the tube to allow the print to be retained by this strip.

    Next go to a sheet metal shop and have a piece of 18 guage stainless rolled into a ten inch diameter trough with ends welded into the trough. Next fashion a drive mechanism using a small gear motor like that used by the unicolor roller base. Have this mounted over the trough with a swing away base so the print tube can be inserted. Cut and glue small radius strips to the exterior ends of your tube to cut down on the friction of the tube/trough interface.

    This will allow processing in a limited space with a relatively small amount of chemistry...if you want you can go higher tech and incorporate a multichannel timer and use it to control drain and fill of the developer, stop, and fix...even replenishment if you wish. Should you wish to go this direction, you can use peristaltic pumps to control fill rates etc.
    Art is a step from what is obvious and well-known toward what is arcane and concealed.

    Visit my website at http://www.donaldmillerphotography.com

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Donald Miller View Post
    A couple of ideas on design. First your idea of 8 inch tube is good. I would take a strip of 1/4 inch thickness acrylic and using a table saw cut the strip to the appropriate width with an bevel to the inside of the tube this would be glued to the inside of the tube to allow the print to be retained by this strip.

    Next go to a sheet metal shop and have a piece of 18 guage stainless rolled into a ten inch diameter trough with ends welded into the trough. Next fashion a drive mechanism using a small gear motor like that used by the unicolor roller base. Have this mounted over the trough with a swing away base so the print tube can be inserted. Cut and glue small radius strips to the exterior ends of your tube to cut down on the friction of the tube/trough interface.

    This will allow processing in a limited space with a relatively small amount of chemistry...if you want you can go higher tech and incorporate a multichannel timer and use it to control drain and fill of the developer, stop, and fix...even replenishment if you wish. Should you wish to go this direction, you can use peristaltic pumps to control fill rates etc.
    I think the custom, stainless trough is a good idea. The rest of your ideas would be amazing but not critical for what I have in mind so I'll file them away as future refinements. I am thinking about forgoing the trough all together and just using the donut end caps all the time and pouring the solutions into the tube, rather than putting the tube in a trough. Key to this is that at least one of the end caps would have to be easily removable but not leaky.

    This way the whole works would simply be motorized by setting it on the Uniroller.

    The acrylic bevel retainer is a perfect idea. What might be simpler is to use pvc glue to glue a small radius pvc tube inside the large tube, running it's length. It would have the same effect. Maybe I could take a piece of 6" pvc and cut a series of rings that would be glued inside the 8" tube at intervals to perform this function and also prevent the wet paper from collapsing in on itself.
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  4. #14
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    Regarding washing in a tube.
    I do not think it to be problematic, as most of the action is the chemicals leaching out of the paper. so filling and dumping should be sufficient of course a hypo clear rinse would be needed before final wash.

  5. #15

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    Good Morning,

    "This way the whole works would simply be motorized by setting it on the Uniroller."

    I would worry about a very large drum on common motor bases. I have a 16 x 20 Chromega which I use on a Beseler rotator. With chemicals inside, it's definitely heavy and somewhat awkward. Keeping it centered and balanced on the rotator demands constant attention. A 20 x 24 drum would be even more problematic. I'd also be concerned about overstressing the small motor with relatively heavy loads.

    My own very large home-made drum has walls which are about 1/4" thick. It's far too heavy and awkward to be used on any motor base I've ever seen. Since doing 36" wide (or larger) prints is hardly an everyday experience for me, I find that manual rotation on the upturned furniture casters (mentioned in my previous message in this thread) is perfectly satisfactory.

    Unless you anticipate some kind of mass production, I'd say, "Keep it simple."

    Konical
    Last edited by Konical; 06-01-2007 at 11:34 AM. Click to view previous post history. Reason: spelling error

  6. #16

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    i came across this you might be able to adapt this in a bigger size to suit your needs ,wayne. http://medfmt.8k.com/brontube.html

  7. #17
    Bob Carnie's Avatar
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    This sounds like a good idea. we uses a screen material for holding prints on a K16 unit . Jstraw you may want to look into this idea in your large tubes.
    Quote Originally Posted by juan View Post
    I use fiberglass screens behind my negatives when developing in tubes. I wonder if similar screens would be useful in removing prints from tubes?
    juan

  8. #18

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    Have you checked out the Dev-Tec system? For $100 you can by the whole system needed to process 20x24" lab quality color or b/w prints.

    http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...essor_for.html
    "A certain amount of contempt for the material employed to express an idea is indispensable to the purest realization of this idea." Man Ray

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by w rollinson View Post
    i came across this you might be able to adapt this in a bigger size to suit your needs ,wayne. http://medfmt.8k.com/brontube.html
    That looks interesting and I could simplify that design a great deal since I don't need mine to be light tight.
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  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Changeling1 View Post
    Have you checked out the Dev-Tec system? For $100 you can by the whole system needed to process 20x24" lab quality color or b/w prints.

    http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...essor_for.html
    That looks very promising.

    One big complicating factor is that I plan to use FB paper and I will have to adequately wash the prints in whatever sort of tube system I wind up using unless I come up with a better way of washing the prints.
    Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetuer adipiscing elit. In velit arcu, consequat at, interdum sit amet, consequat in, quam.

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