Switch to English Language Passer en langue française Omschakelen naar Nederlandse Taal Wechseln Sie zu deutschen Sprache Passa alla lingua italiana
Members: 70,294   Posts: 1,535,525   Online: 1034
      
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 18
  1. #1

    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Shooter
    35mm
    Posts
    415

    MGFB, how to determine age?

    I was just given a box of Ilford Multigrade Warmtone. I've never used this stuff before, and I'm just curious how old it is. Anyway to tell off the box(it's not dated...)? It's a dark burgundy box with what may(?) be a batch code: 64D601C21. I'll find out if it's any good soon enough, but I figured knowing in advance that it was 5, 10, 15(!) years old would give me some insight in the darkroom. Thanks!

  2. #2
    Peter Black's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Scotland, UK
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    1,001
    Images
    23
    I'm bumping this thread to see if anyone has any information but perhaps missed this thread first time round. I've just been defrosting the darkroom fridge and contemplating the future of the Ilford FB Warmtone paper I had in there. I don't mind losing the 5x7, but I'd sure hate to lose the 11x14 if there is a chance it remains OK. It is several years old now and has been in the fridge since bought. It remains sealed in its original packaging (packs of 10 sheets), but I haven't done any printing for maybe 4 or 5 years, whereas the Ilford information sheet on their website suggests a remarkably short 2 year shelf life when properly stored. I'll obviously get round to trying it, but would value others thoughts/experiences meantime.

    Thanks, Peter

  3. #3
    Ian Grant's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    West Midlands, UK, and Turkey
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    16,245
    Images
    148
    Should be a code a letter followed by a 2 digit number, somewhere on the label, this number is the year.

    Ian

  4. #4
    Peter Black's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Scotland, UK
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    1,001
    Images
    23
    Thanks Ian. The 5x7 looks like it could fit into that as it is 11B601C94 (although I would have bought it sometime after that), but the 11x14 code is 15E601C17 and it is perfectly clear, so no chance of it being a 9 instead of a 1. The 601 certainly looks to be the product code for FB Warmtone as I have some 8x10 RC Warmtone coded 27E803C89. This would suggest 89 as the year of production, but I didn't set up my darkroom here until 94 at the earliest, so maybe that was old stock I bought at the time.

  5. #5
    PhotoJim's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Regina, SK, CA
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    2,221
    My understanding is that Ilford's codes aren't legible by the average person. I wish they were.

    Perhaps if you send Simon Galley (a user here) the codes, he can look up the dates of manufacture for you.

    You could simply test the paper as well. Ilford paper has quite good longevity if it is reasonably stored.
    Jim MacKenzie - Regina, Saskatchewan, Canada

    A bunch of Nikons; Feds, Zorkis and a Kiev; Pentax 67-II (inherited from my deceased father-in-law); Bronica SQ-A; and a nice Shen Hao 4x5 field camera with 3 decent lenses that needs to be taken outside more. Oh, and as of mid-2012, one of those bodies we don't talk about here.

    Favourite film: do I need to pick only one?

  6. #6

    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Long Island, New York
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    1,067
    For what it's worth, a trick I've used to see if old paper is worth the trouble is to take one full sheet, unexposed, and develop it. If there is a tonality to the emulsion side - toss it. Next, with clear, (unexposed but developed) film in the enlarger, expose a test strip for min. exposure / max. black but before you develop it cover approx 1/3 lengthwise and turn on your room lights briefly to make sure its well and truly fogged - then process as usual. If none of the enlarger exposures give you the max black of the heavily fogged portion then forget it for any images with strong shadow detail. If you can attain max black under the enlarger with film base then the paper's usable. To use the paper you'll need to do the max. black test anyway. I keep finding or getting given paper and this is what I've found useful. Until you prove otherwise though I wouldn't use it for your next exhibit.
    Hope it helps.

  7. #7

    Join Date
    May 2006
    Shooter
    8x10 Format
    Posts
    306
    Am just starting to print some I was given and find it a full stop slower than RC and a grade softer when using a colour head. It is worth persevering with as when you crack it the results are wonderful.


    Regards Paul.

  8. #8
    Mike Wilde's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Misissauaga Canada
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    2,939
    Images
    29

    watch out for the first piece though

    The top piece of paper in the package, with the emulsion against the inner cardboard or plastic bag often ages differently than the rest of the package. Pull from the middle of the pack to test the pack. The first piece, if only it was judged, could test bad, and then you could chuck an otherwise usable older pack.

  9. #9
    Thomas Bertilsson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Minnesota
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    14,243
    Images
    296
    Or, as I have just found out, you can print using the Defender D-58 developer (mix it yourself) and print on almost any paper. I have seen some stunning prints on paper that expired almost sixty years ago using that formula. There was no Ilford paper in the bunch though, mostly Agfa and Kodak.

    Or, if you decide to chuck it anyway, I'll give you my address... I'll pay the shipping.

    - Thomas

    Quote Originally Posted by BobNewYork View Post
    For what it's worth, a trick I've used to see if old paper is worth the trouble is to take one full sheet, unexposed, and develop it. If there is a tonality to the emulsion side - toss it. Next, with clear, (unexposed but developed) film in the enlarger, expose a test strip for min. exposure / max. black but before you develop it cover approx 1/3 lengthwise and turn on your room lights briefly to make sure its well and truly fogged - then process as usual. If none of the enlarger exposures give you the max black of the heavily fogged portion then forget it for any images with strong shadow detail. If you can attain max black under the enlarger with film base then the paper's usable. To use the paper you'll need to do the max. black test anyway. I keep finding or getting given paper and this is what I've found useful. Until you prove otherwise though I wouldn't use it for your next exhibit.
    Hope it helps.
    "Often moments come looking for us". - Robert Frank

    "Make good art!" - Neil Gaiman

    "...the heart and mind are the true lens of the camera". - Yousuf Karsh

  10. #10
    Peter Black's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Scotland, UK
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    1,001
    Images
    23
    Many thanks for the replies guys.

    Defender D-58 developer (mix it yourself)
    Thomas, I'm not familiar with this developer and Google seems to be in the same boat. Can you give more details please?

    Thanks, Peter

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast


 

APUG PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Contact Us  |  Support Us!  |  Advertise  |  Site Terms  |  Archive  —   Search  |  Mobile Device Access  |  RSS  |  Facebook  |  Linkedin