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  1. #1
    Stephanie Brim's Avatar
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    Printing color film developed in B&W chemicals.

    I have two images I would very much like to print on B&W paper from a roll of Fuji 400 I developed in D76 by mistake a while back. By a while back, I mean when I first started developing and I wasn't quite sure what I was doing. I thought the roll was TMAX 100 and threw it in with another roll of TMAX. Whoops.





    And more as a comparison:





    One of the two at the top is most likely unprintable unless someone can tell me what to do about the stupid people who decided to cut my negatives through the middle.

    How would these print on normal B&W paper? How would they print on color paper? The reason I ask is that I plan on doing this again and I want to get some feedback as to what the best printing option would be.
    No idea what's going to happen next, but I'm hoping it involves being wrist deep in chemicals come the weekend.

  2. #2
    Mike Wilde's Avatar
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    If they have not been bleached (which if they were B&W processed they should not have been), then there might still be colour the oxidized colour former waiting to mate with the colour couplers found in color fim developer

    There is the question of how much of the dye formers created when you initially developed this as B&W are left years later if they were never stabilised, but my understanding of the theory is that you should be able to send them through the conventional C41 process to get color negatives. (apart from the fact they are all mechanically short strips now). There would be no silver halide to be developed by the colour developer, itself, but there are couplers present if it is a seasoned developer. Then bleach to remove the excess dye, and fix to remove silver halide recreated by the bleach, and wash and stabilise.

    If you want to print them as is B&W, consider using something like 80CC blue to counter the cyan mask.



 

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