Switch to English Language Passer en langue française Omschakelen naar Nederlandse Taal Wechseln Sie zu deutschen Sprache Passa alla lingua italiana
Members: 68,676   Posts: 1,481,952   Online: 1052
      
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 14
  1. #1

    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Saugerties, NY
    Shooter
    Large Format
    Posts
    1,159
    Images
    182

    ortho or litho films

    hello all,
    i was checking out ultra fine for some film deals when i ran across these http://www.ultrafineonline.com/ulhicoorlifi.html
    any one have any experiences with ortho or litho films? i shoot pinhole images so crazy effects are okay. also 16x20 is pretty cheap.....just gives me an excuse to build a 16x20 pinhole camera!::)))
    how do these films work in lens cameras?
    thanks for the info.

    eddie
    photoshop is somewhere you go to buy photo equipment.


    lens photos here

  2. #2

    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Willamette Valley, Oregon
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    3,684
    Quote Originally Posted by eddie gunks View Post
    hello all, i was checking out ultra fine for some film deals when i ran
    across these http://www.ultrafineonline.com/ulhicoorlifi.html

    any one have any experiences with ortho or litho films? i shoot
    pinhole images so crazy effects are okay. also 16x20 is pretty
    cheap...gives me an excuse to build a 16x20 pinhole camera!:
    how do these films work in lens cameras? thanks for the info.
    eddie
    A usual place for litho films, which are BTW ortho-chromatic,
    is behind a lens in a process camera. The exposed and developed
    film is used to 'burn' plates for an offset printing press. So the
    film is a part of the lithographic process of printing. I was
    employed at just that some years ago.

    Litho films are blue and green sensitive only and I'd guess about
    the same speed as a VC print paper. For pictorial use employ only
    the very lowest of contrast developers. I sure some others can
    give more exact information. Dan

  3. #3
    Michel Hardy-Vallée's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Montréal (QC)
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    4,348
    Images
    132
    16x20 pinhole... of course! There's a way to make sharp pictures!

    I've used Arista APHS film as a positive transparency (cf. in my gallery http://www.apug.org/gallery/showphot...00&ppuser=6132) and in terms of speed and contrast, it's very similar to a standard grade 2 paper when processed in paper developer, according to my step wedges.

    What I've noticed is that you really need to snatch the film out of the developer. It builds density rather quickly (and the blacks are OPAQUE!), and if you develop for too long you will just have a muddy result. APHS is ortho, and developed under red safelight was all fine.

    If you process as a negative, you would theoretically need less contrast than what a print developer can give you. Speed would be thus probably slower.

    I would start by making a small pinhole box, in order to use less film and do more tests. Expose at different EI, use a dilute developer (like Rodinal or HC-110 1+100), and develop for the same time.

    Then make a contact print. Make sure that you expose your contact for the minimal time required to give you full black on an unexposed but developed portion of the film. Look at the shadows. When you have the shadow details you need, take note of the EI and look at the highlights. If your highlights are blown out, start over and reduce development time (increase if the opposite). Once you get decent highlights, look again at your shadows and adjust the EI to be in the right ballpark.

    Once you find a decent EI and dev time, just build the 16x20 and give it a try.
    Last edited by Michel Hardy-Vallée; 06-29-2007 at 06:28 PM. Click to view previous post history.
    Using film since before it was hip.


    "One of the most singular characters of the hyposulphites, is the property their solutions possess of dissolving muriate of silver and retaining it in considerable quantity in permanent solution" — Sir John Frederick William Herschel, "On the Hyposulphurous Acid and its Compounds." The Edinburgh Philosophical Journal, Vol. 1 (8 Jan. 1819): 8-29. p. 11

    My APUG Portfolio

  4. #4

    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Italia
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    4,680
    I don't know that one but the Freestyle I think most use EI 3 or 6.

    For developer do a search on the on APHS. You'll find people using anything from highly dilute D-72 to various low contrast special brews.

  5. #5

    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Saugerties, NY
    Shooter
    Large Format
    Posts
    1,159
    Images
    182
    thanks all. mhv, your info was quite helpful. i will buy some of these at these prices....i mean 10 sheets of 16x20 at 16-31$ is worth playing with. what are your opinions on the thickness differences available(.004 or .007 what is regular film thickness?)?
    photoshop is somewhere you go to buy photo equipment.


    lens photos here

  6. #6
    Michel Hardy-Vallée's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Montréal (QC)
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    4,348
    Images
    132
    APHS is very thin compared to ordinary sheet film, and much less stiff than the latter. HP5+, for example, is 0.180 mm (always read the spec sheets!), whereas APHS is 0.004 mm. It's very wobbly, and at 16x20 you will want to tape it properly to a stiff backing (unless of course you exploit wobbliness itself).
    Last edited by Michel Hardy-Vallée; 06-29-2007 at 09:18 PM. Click to view previous post history.
    Using film since before it was hip.


    "One of the most singular characters of the hyposulphites, is the property their solutions possess of dissolving muriate of silver and retaining it in considerable quantity in permanent solution" — Sir John Frederick William Herschel, "On the Hyposulphurous Acid and its Compounds." The Edinburgh Philosophical Journal, Vol. 1 (8 Jan. 1819): 8-29. p. 11

    My APUG Portfolio

  7. #7

    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Willamette Valley, Oregon
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    3,684
    Quote Originally Posted by mhv View Post
    APHS is very thin compared to ordinary sheet film,
    and much less stiff than the latter. HP5+, for example,
    is 0.180 mm (always read the spec sheets!), whereas
    APHS is 0.004 mm. It's very wobbly, and at 16x20
    you will want to tape it properly to a stiff backing
    (unless of course you exploit wobbliness itself).
    The emulsions may be that thin. That would be 7/1000
    of an inch for the HP5+ and the APHS 16/100,000 of an
    inch. I think my math correct; based on 1mm = 1/25
    inch. Those films are intended for sticky-back or
    vacuum support.

    May wish to explore www.valleylitho.com . They've
    a large selection of litho films, developers, and, and,
    and, ... . Dan

  8. #8
    Michel Hardy-Vallée's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Montréal (QC)
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    4,348
    Images
    132
    Quote Originally Posted by dancqu View Post
    The emulsions may be that thin. That would be 7/1000
    of an inch for the HP5+ and the APHS 16/100,000 of an
    inch. I think my math correct; based on 1mm = 1/25
    inch. Those films are intended for sticky-back or
    vacuum support.

    May wish to explore www.valleylitho.com . They've
    a large selection of litho films, developers, and, and,
    and, ... . Dan
    Ah, that makes sense. It's the only thickness measurements I found on the spec sheet. At any rate I sure noticed it's thinner than normal sheet film.

    Eddie, two things I thought about: build your 16x20 right away, but instead of putting an entire sheet, just put cut bits of film to figure out your dev/EI. And you can even use a normal 35mm camera to do so, if you can bother with loading it/unloading it in darkness with small bits of film.
    Using film since before it was hip.


    "One of the most singular characters of the hyposulphites, is the property their solutions possess of dissolving muriate of silver and retaining it in considerable quantity in permanent solution" — Sir John Frederick William Herschel, "On the Hyposulphurous Acid and its Compounds." The Edinburgh Philosophical Journal, Vol. 1 (8 Jan. 1819): 8-29. p. 11

    My APUG Portfolio

  9. #9

    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Shenadoah Valley
    Shooter
    Large Format
    Posts
    342
    Images
    4
    I've shot graphic arts film in camera and gotten decent negatives exposing at ei 3 and processing in d76 1:2. Reciprocity will come into play with the slow film and my general rule for starting out is to triple the exposure if you get a meter reading over a minute. Use of a paper or litho film developer will yield very high contrast and limited tonal range which should be expected anyway. Using a dilute film developer about twice as dilute as normal would be a good starting point for printable negatives.

  10. #10

    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Saugerties, NY
    Shooter
    Large Format
    Posts
    1,159
    Images
    182
    okay! thanks guys. i will try it! 16x20 sound fun....and thing::))
    photoshop is somewhere you go to buy photo equipment.


    lens photos here

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast


 

APUG PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Contact Us  |  Support Us!  |  Advertise  |  Site Terms  |  Archive  —   Search  |  Mobile Device Access  |  RSS  |  Facebook  |  Linkedin