fuji across and woods...
With some members of our photoclub we are trying to use the fuji across for making pics in the woods.
Our goal is to have a print that shows the truth...
We do not make pics during the day with a lot of sun. We stay withing the range of 4-5 stops.
What we found out until now is that the across can not register the contrast between dark trees and lighter areas as tri-x does. Rating film as 50 or using pyrocat still does not help. The neg has all the information, but it is not printable.
When we compair the neg with a tri-x neg, they look the same, but the trix is printable and the across not.
Looks like the across can not get more than 3 stops of contrast.
Has anyone got the same problem with this film?
for studio work it is a very good/sharp film. But we do not go beyond 2-3 stops.
Are you nuts ? Or are you dutch ? B&W films go way beyond 3, 4 or 5 stops...
How do you develop your film ? And what method do you use to determine the exposure latitude of the films in question ? Acros is a great film, by the way... not at all as you describe it.
The highlights are to light. besides that the total impression of the photo is to dark as what we have seen on the spot.
development in rodinal or pyro has the same problem where using tri-x shows a much lighter scene on paper (more realistic) than across. We are trying to get the same result as what we get with tri-x. But until now without result.
we know what we are doing with development. change (+) exposure and shorter development also does not do the trick. The overall image stays to dark where tri-x shows a bright scene...
Across is indeed a nice film (i use it allready for 5 years), but with nature scenes we want to show the reality....
One solution would be to use tri-x, but we want to get the across right for this kind of job....
I'm not sure what dilution you're using for Rodinal, but try 1+100 for 18 minutes. Five gentle inversions at the start of each minute for the first three minutes, then one inversion every three minutes. Temperature should be 20C. Rate the film at 80-100. You should get a very easy to print negative.
As the previous poster said, try Rodinal for 18min 1:100.
Sounds like you are over developing the film, I can easily get a wider tonal range than you seem to think is normal.
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for sure Tri-x will work better but you can get good result with rodinal 1+100 as wrote PC head land. I had the same problem as you years ago and solve it with rodinal 1+100
Why would you dilute further when the whole scene is not more than 4-5 stops? This should be printable without changing deveopment of the film.
Originally Posted by Mark Antony
Have you changed the paper contrast to try and match the negative? Is the problem that the tree trucks are too dark when you have the light tones printed the way you want them? Then you need to expose more to bring the trucks up and cut development to control the highlights. Or maybe flash the paper to bring in the highlights with a lower print exposure. Also try bracketing some exposures to see if you can find what you want.
I use Acros as my standard film in 120 format. Here at 7,000' elevation, the contrast, due to the clarity of the air, is about a stop or more than at sea level. Back when first testing this film, it was clear it could record a ten stop range, far more than your requirements (with TMAX developer 1:7 23C 12minutes). I now use it with Rodinal as well and the result is similar.
Could the problem be agitation? Maybe you could try using distilled water to mix the developer? Double-check that your thermometer is accurate! This is a marvelous film...
I use acros quite a bit and never have the problems you describe. I rate the film at 64 and expose my shadow areas at a zone 4-5. This puts your shadow areas on the straight line portion of the curve. Rodinal at higher dilutions works well and I have found Ilford Perceptol 1+2 for 16 minutes to work fantastic. DiXactol and Pyrocat work just ok in my opinion for this film but others seem to swear by pyro developers and acros. It is very important that you give shadow areas generous exposure, especially with rodinal IMO, otherwise they will drop out...at least thats been my experience.