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  1. #11
    jd callow's Avatar
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    I have a 4x5, access to a densitometer, and will reread the <u>The Negative</u>.

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  2. #12
    jd callow's Avatar
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    Ok, I bought the film &#036;40.00 a box. I think I&#39;m set for developer or at least I know what I&#39;m getting (Pyro) and where (http://www.photoformulary.com/). My final question is what fixer (fixer w/hardner or w/o and a name would be helpful). Thanks a boutload&#33;&#33;&#33;

    I plan on using it for portraiture using a sinar, commercial ektar 300 f/6,7, an old photogenic flashmaster strobe setup, and traditional B/W filtration based upon skin, eye and (to a lesser degree)hair colour.

    I have a small studio and access to fairly broad and interesting pool of models.

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  3. #13
    lee
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    You can use a number of fixer combos. Some will advocate sodium thiosulfate and some will advocate rapid fix and some will advocate any non- acid type fixers like TF-4 claiming the stain is better. I stand squarely into the rapid fix camp. I have used all three and I frankly cannot see the difference. I happen to have Rapid Fix (used w/o hardner) and I also I don&#39;t re-soak the film in spent developer as this just adds to the general overall stain. It makes the exposure times longer when printing. This is for PMK Pyro which is what I took you to mean. If it is not, then disregard all the above. If this is ABC pyro contact
    www.michaelandpaula.com Look around on their site and you will find Michael&#39;s formula for ABC pyro and how to mix it and use it. They (Michael and Paula) are the leading experts in ABC pyro with Super XX. Great info there. BTW, he recomends rapid fix no harder for ABC pyro.

    lee&#092;c

  4. #14

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    Lee, I think that if you will recheck that you find that Michael Smith is squarely in the camp of not using rapid fix. He uses 32 oz sodium thiosulfate and 4 oz of sodium sulfite per gallon of fixer. I agree with his reasoning on not using rapid fix since I have had the unfortunate experience of having rapid fix bleach the silver.
    Art is a step from what is obvious and well-known toward what is arcane and concealed.

    Visit my website at http://www.donaldmillerphotography.com

  5. #15
    David A. Goldfarb's Avatar
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    I like TF-4 with both ABC and PMK, though there are certainly others getting good results with plain hypo and other fixers.
    flickr--http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidagoldfarb/
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  6. #16
    jd callow's Avatar
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    Well the water gets muddier. I was going to use Roller Pyro (due to the roller developemnt I&#39;ll be using). I assume this is a different animal still than ABC.

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  7. #17
    David A. Goldfarb's Avatar
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    I think Rollo Pyro is a version of PMK with something to retard or compensate for the oxidation problem with roller processing. There is also ABC+ which I think is spiked with Amidol that may also find favor among the rollerfiles. Go to unblinkingeye.com for Ed&#39;s page on various pyro formulae.

    One issue with pyro is that is that it makes densitometer readings more complicated. Use a color densitometer on the blue channel to read the stain density along with the silver density.
    flickr--http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidagoldfarb/
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  8. #18
    lee
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    ok, I will look. I am doing this from memory so as I get older and older stuff starts to fail. As they say, "Short term memory is the first of two things to go on the march toward senility. I don&#39;t remember the second one."


    lee&#092;c

  9. #19
    lee
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    I just checked on the fixer issue with michaelandpaula.com and under the FORMULAS AND PROCEEDURES Michael says to use Rapid fix BUT be careful not to over fix as it could bleach the silver in the negative. I personally have never seen the effect in the neg but have seen it happen on a print that I left in the fixer overnight. Maybe there is a contridition on Michael&#39;s part?

    lee&#092;c

  10. #20
    jd callow's Avatar
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    Did you notice my dual cubes? That’s right I&#39;m no longer a newbie, I&#39;m a junior&#33;


    ABC Pyro Plus Film Developer is the developer I found on http://www.photoformulary.com. It is intended for Roller development or so they say.

    Photoformulary a tough site to navigate or am I just a digital elitist?

    My concern about fixer was based upon statements I&#39;ve read that seemed to indicate that older films required a hardener. I guess SXX is not that old. The point about not over fixing is good for me to hear. I always thought that fixing was a completion process; meaning that once fixed you couldn&#39;t over fix. When developing Tmax I would often fix far longer then recommended to get rid of the purple cast.

    So Rapid fixer is ok if used with caution,

    By the by, I really do appreciate everyone’s help -- so far. I can&#39;t wait till I start printing and you kind folks can walk me through paper selections, contrast techniques, toning -- I can see multi cubes in my future.

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