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  1. #11
    David A. Goldfarb's Avatar
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    I use a 1% metabisulfite solution in my tank line with Acufine and TF-4 (until I run out, and then I'll switch to another alkaline fixer), but I just measured the pH, and it's just about 2.1, so still quite acidic, if my pH meter isn't too far out. Maybe I should increase the dilution in the interest of maintaining the fixer. After a few years, I haven't had a problem with this.

    It doesn't have as strong an odor as acetic acid stop, so that's a plus.
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  2. #12
    RalphLambrecht's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Les McLean View Post
    I've use a water stop bath for both film and paper for years and so far there is no evidence that it has had any effect on the final result.
    then why do itand not leave it out?
    Regards

    Ralph W. Lambrecht
    www.darkroomagic.comrorrlambrec@ymail.com[/URL]
    www.waybeyondmonochrome.com

  3. #13
    David A. Goldfarb's Avatar
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    When I don't use a stop, I use a water rinse, and I use it to prolong the life of the fixer.
    flickr--http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidagoldfarb/
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  4. #14

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    Since I started this thread in 2007 I offer this update. I now use a very dilute metabisulphite stop for FB paper, on the basis that it's more compatible with neutral fixer (Kodak Flexicolor Fixer, pH close to neutral, not very smelly) than acetic acid. The metabisulphite stop smells of SO2 but in a Nova slot processor it's not too bad. The occasional staining no longer occurs.

    The metabisulphite solution does not seem to last long, so I replace it during a long session. It's very dilute, but as David Goldfarb notes above, still rather acidic.

  5. #15

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    The only problem would be the sulfur dioxide that the metabisulfites release. Some people are sensitive to this gas which can cause asthmatic symptoms especially in a closed environment such as a darkroom. A better choice would be citric acid.
    A rock pile ceases to be a rock pile the moment a single man contemplates it, bearing within him the image of a cathedral.

    ~Antoine de Saint-Exupery

  6. #16
    juan's Avatar
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    Jerry, do you have an idea of how much citric acid would be best for film? I use it for paper, but have never been really careful about how much there - a couple of teaspoons in a tray of water. I would think film would be more critical.
    juan

  7. #17

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    Of the organic acids citric acid is quite strong and also contains three acid groups as contrasted to acetic acid's one. A concentrate can be made up by dissolving 300 g of citric acide in enough water to make one liter. For use it is diluted 1+19. Fiber based papers should be treated for 30 to 60 sec.
    A rock pile ceases to be a rock pile the moment a single man contemplates it, bearing within him the image of a cathedral.

    ~Antoine de Saint-Exupery

  8. #18
    RalphLambrecht's Avatar
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    i use a 2%solution for paper and a 1%solution for film.
    Regards

    Ralph W. Lambrecht
    www.darkroomagic.comrorrlambrec@ymail.com[/URL]
    www.waybeyondmonochrome.com

  9. #19
    Photo Engineer's Avatar
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    I was told not to use Citric Acid stops with color materials. The reason escapes me now, but that is what I remember.

    PE

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