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  1. #11

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    Juan - I agree about the possibility of multiple hangers being an issue, even though I haven't done enough testing to confirm, but for practical use, one at a time isn't enough, so it's kind of academic. But thanks for the comment.

    Tim - I am talking about standing tubes up in the tank, next to each other. I can get about 8 in a tank. But to follow your point, if you cap both ends, how do you let them stand for 10 minutes with no developer edge line? Are the tubes an inch or so longer and almost full, like a stainless steel tank with reels?
    When it's time to dump and change, do you then put them all in a tank to stop development more or less together? (I shoot a lot of pan strips, so this is important)
    Thanks for following this up.

  2. #12
    climbabout's Avatar
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    fp4/pyro/stand dev/min agit

    If you don't mind me jumping in I can share my development method for 8x10 and minimal agit or semi stand or stand dev.

    I built my own set of pvc tubes for 8x10. they are 2 piece and they unscrew in the middle. The film end is made up of a 14" length of 3" pvc, a flat end cap and a pvc male adapter on the end. The chemistry end is made up of a 14" length of 3" pvc, a flat end cap and a 3" female adapter. The flat end caps are used so the tubes can stand on end.

    I prefill the female end with chemistry or pre soak water, turn off the lights, load the film in the male end and then in the dark screw the male end into the female end and then I can turn the lights on. The chemistry or pre soak is still on the bottom end of this assembly and the film is in the top end. I now quickly invert the assembly to and begin my agitation or presoak - the film gets quickly covered with chemistry this way.

    For semistand or minimal agitation, I usually just roll the assembly on a flat surface for a minute and then stand it upright. Of course you need to determine the correct amount of chemistry needed so the film is completely submerged. This method has produced great results for me thus far.
    Tim

  3. #13
    noseoil's Avatar
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    George, the tubes I make are cut from ABS and are 1" longer than the film size (4x5 tube size is 6", 5x7 is 8", etc.). This allows the fluid to completely cover the film, with room to spare. The 4x5 tube uses 240ml of developer. Once the plug is screwed in place, the small amount of air trapped in the top will compress and slowly displace fluid out of the top, because the threads are not completely air tight and I don't use o-rings or a sealant. The air just seems to move the developer around with the tubes in motion and doesn't cause problems, since the tube is set upright between agitations.

    This is a very effective method and I have had good results and consistency. Care must be taken when removing the film, as scratches on the back side can happen if the film and screen are not removed at the same time. I cut screens with a small tab on the long end, which allows a finger to slide between the tube's side and the screen/film layers for removal. Just takes a bit of practice. tim

  4. #14

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    Thanks to everyone for the advice. Looks like tubes are the answer. I will repost if I find the tubes in tanks successful (easiest for me to try, nothing new to make).

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