Switch to English Language Passer en langue française Omschakelen naar Nederlandse Taal Wechseln Sie zu deutschen Sprache Passa alla lingua italiana
Members: 71,900   Posts: 1,584,397   Online: 696
      
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 13
  1. #1

    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    South Pasadena, CA USA
    Posts
    470
    What's the best paper and paper developer for portraits? Since mine would be Agfa Portriga, I guess I should say what's the best of CURRENTLY AVAILABLE products?

    dgh

    David G Hall

  2. #2
    bmac's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    San Jose, CA
    Posts
    2,156
    Images
    9
    It really depends on what you are looking for... for soft portraits I like Ilford MG fiber with Neutol WA. For warm creamy portraits I like Forte Polywarmtone Fiber in Ilford PQ... It all depends...
    hi!

  3. #3
    Les McLean's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Northern England on the Scottish border
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    1,610
    I often use 2 bath development with two home made developers: Gaevert G253 as the soft bath and OD 62 as the hard. G253 is probably the best soft developer that I have ever used.
    "Digital circuits are made from analogue parts"
    Fourtune Cookie-Brooklyn May 2006

    Website: www.lesmcleanphotography.com

  4. #4

    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    South Pasadena, CA USA
    Posts
    470
    Wow, Les, split grade printing in split developing? Now that's a level I had not even contemplated.

    Can you tell me more about these developers. You say home made...does that mean mixing this and that from existing chemistries, or are you grinding new agents yourself?

    And I KNEW you'd come in to this thread with something this cool!

    dgh
    David G Hall

  5. #5
    Bruce Osgood's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Brooklyn, N.Y. USA
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    2,461
    Images
    47
    </span><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (Les McLean @ Mar 3 2003, 08:27 PM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'> Gaevert G253 as the soft bath and OD 62 as the hard. G253 is probably the best soft developer that I have ever used.</td></tr></table><span class='postcolor'>
    Hi Les,

    Can you tell me what the difference is between G.262 and G.253? I have the formula for G.262 but can&#39;t find the G.253. I&#39;d like to try the G.253 since you recommend so highly. Also, what is the OD in OD 62?

  6. #6
    Les McLean's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Northern England on the Scottish border
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    1,610
    Bruce,

    I don&#39;t have a Gevaert G262 but do have a G252 which is a contact paper cold tone developer. G252 is a very soft portrait developer the formula is as follows.
    Water 700ml: Metol 3gr: Sodium Sulphite 20gr: Sodium Carbonate 23gr: Bromide 1gr: Water to 1 litre: Dilution 1 to 1 although I prefer 1 part dev to 2 parts water. For warmer tones you can increase the bromide but be careful for you can introduce a green cast with too much bromide.

    OD62 is a formula that I picked up from the first box of Oriental Seagull paper that I purchased nearly 20 years ago. I think the OD is an abbreviation of Oriental Developer. The formula is as follows;
    Water 700ml: Metal 2.5gr: Sodium Sulphite 50gr: Hydroquinone 12gr: Sodium Carbonate 60gr: Pot bromide 10% sol&#39;n 5ml. water to 1 litre. Dilution 1 part dev to 3 parts water. I prefer 1 part dev to 1 part water. You should get quite warm tones especially with a designated warm tone paper.

    I tend to prefer very dilute soft bath in combination with a strong hard bath and find that this gives me excellent control of both shadows and highlights. I have explained my method in the article on two bath development that Sean loaded at the weekend. Using these dilutions I can achieve the richest of blacks after 15 to 30 seconds in the hard bath first, the remainder of the development time is taken in the very dilute soft bath.
    "Digital circuits are made from analogue parts"
    Fourtune Cookie-Brooklyn May 2006

    Website: www.lesmcleanphotography.com

  7. #7
    Bruce Osgood's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Brooklyn, N.Y. USA
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    2,461
    Images
    47
    </span><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (Les McLean @ Mar 4 2003, 05:56 PM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'>snip
    .... but do have a G252 which is a contact paper cold tone developer. G252 is a very soft portrait developer the formula is as follows.

    snip
    .....OD62 is a formula that I picked up from the first box of Oriental Seagull paper that I purchased nearly 20 years ago. </td></tr></table><span class='postcolor'>
    Thank you Les,

    I take it the G252 does not work well with enlarging? Maybe I&#39;m missing your point. Is it meant as a contact paper cold tone developer that you use as a soft portrait developer when enlarging from a 35mm or MF neg?

    OD 62....... You still got the box?

    Thanks for the formulas, I&#39;ll try them soon; at any rate they appear to be an important part of the arsnel. Can&#39;t have too many options can you?

  8. #8
    Les McLean's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Northern England on the Scottish border
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    1,610
    </span><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (Bruce (Camclicker) @ Mar 5 2003, 04:36 AM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'> I take it the G252 does not work well with enlarging? Maybe I&#39;m missing your point. Is it meant as a contact paper cold tone developer that you use as a soft portrait developer when enlarging from a 35mm or MF neg?

    OD 62....... You still got the box?

    </td></tr></table><span class='postcolor'>
    It is meant to be a contact paper cold tone developer but can be used as a regular hard developer, it is not a soft working developer that one is G353.

    I still have the Oriental Seagull box but it&#39;s full of finished unmounted prints, sadly the paper is long gone. I&#39;m a compulsive hoarder and as we are moving house in 4 weeks time my wife is trying to persuade me to get rid of a lot of what she describes as junk. It&#39;s a traumatic time, not the move, the prospect of ditching some of my precious stuff that I&#39;ve not looked at for years.
    "Digital circuits are made from analogue parts"
    Fourtune Cookie-Brooklyn May 2006

    Website: www.lesmcleanphotography.com

  9. #9

    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Posts
    747
    You know the minute you toss it you&#39;ll need it. It&#39;s not junk it&#39;s just waiting for a need-))

  10. #10
    Aggie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    So. Utah
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    4,925
    Images
    6
    Don&#39;t toss Les, just organize. You would be surprised how well that works, and not as many things seem to make it to the garbage bin.
    Non Digital Diva

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast


 

APUG PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Contact Us  |  Support Us!  |  Advertise  |  Site Terms  |  Archive  —   Search  |  Mobile Device Access  |  RSS  |  Facebook  |  Linkedin