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  1. #1
    Justin Cormack's Avatar
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    making alkaline fix

    I am going to try using a staining developer for the first time. Everything suggests using an alkaline fixer to keep the stain. I dont have any and while there is a thread on converting rapid fix to alkaline, I also have plain hypo. I havent measured the pH yet (I do have a meter though). Would this be easier than starting with rapid fix? What pH am I aiming for?

  2. #2
    Michel Hardy-Vallée's Avatar
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    Formulae:

    With ammonium thiosulfate:
    http://www.jackspcs.com/tf3.htm

    With plain hypo:
    http://www.jackspcs.com/tf2.htm
    Using film since before it was hip.


    "One of the most singular characters of the hyposulphites, is the property their solutions possess of dissolving muriate of silver and retaining it in considerable quantity in permanent solution" — Sir John Frederick William Herschel, "On the Hyposulphurous Acid and its Compounds." The Edinburgh Philosophical Journal, Vol. 1 (8 Jan. 1819): 8-29. p. 11

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  3. #3
    mrtoml's Avatar
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    You can also buy alkaline fix at monochromephotography.com and retro photographic if need be.

  4. #4
    Photo Engineer's Avatar
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    Just dissolve 100 - 200 g / L of Sodium Hypo in water and you will be fine. Nothing else. Or use 100 - 200 ml/L of Ammonium Hypo solution 60% in water.

    Either will work as a one shot fix.

    PE

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by Justin Cormack View Post
    I am going to try using a staining developer for the first time. Everything suggests using an alkaline fixer to keep the stain. I dont have any and while there is a thread on converting rapid fix to alkaline, I also have plain hypo. I havent measured the pH yet (I do have a meter though). Would this be easier than starting with rapid fix? What pH am I aiming for?
    A neutral fixer seems just as good. Kodak Flexicolor Fixer, made primarily for colour processing, is good (pH=6.5, not alkaline but close) and very reasonably priced and more available because it's used everywhere. But don't just take my word for it, do a search.

    Also, the odour is minimal.

  6. #6

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    I use common Kodak Rapid fix, without the hardener, and I get good stain from my pyro developed negs.

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by Justin Cormack View Post
    I also have plain hypo. I havent measured the pH yet ...
    What pH am I aiming for?
    I routinely use plain hypo, sodium thiosulfate. After
    pouring the developer into the tank and commencing
    the agitation routine I rinse the beaker, fill with 500ml
    of water, and stir in 16 grams of the S. Thiosulfate
    anhydrous. Fresh fix each roll. A roll of Acros 100
    was clear within 8 minutes but allowed 2 more.
    3 inversions at start and 3 each half minute.
    No stop is needed as the fix is a one-shot.

    I've often measured the ph of straight S. Thio. and
    found it to run 6.8 to 7. You'r batch may differ. For a
    fix a little alkaline add one teaspoon of A&H bicarbonate
    of soda. The S. Thio? Perhaps a heaping tablespoon. Dan

  8. #8
    Peter Black's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrtoml View Post
    You can also buy alkaline fix at monochromephotography.com and retro photographic if need be.
    I've got some of this and it is fine. Pity that it requires constant agitation for 5 minutes, but you don't find that out until you buy it. I wouldn't take it for granted that any of the neutral/alkaline solutions above would work well without special agitation, so maybe be aware of that?

  9. #9
    mrtoml's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Black View Post
    I've got some of this and it is fine. Pity that it requires constant agitation for 5 minutes, but you don't find that out until you buy it.
    I use a Jobo for this bit

    I think the Retro fixer doesn't specify constant agitation and I was going to give this a try, but haven't as yet.



 

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