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  1. #11

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    I can't say about scanning, but my favorite is WD2D+ from the Formulary. Right now, I'm experimenting with Pyrocat HD because there are so many users here who love the stuff; I'm still nailing down times & EI's, but it sure seems to be good stuff.

    PMK is also a fine dev, but really geared for FB paper. I use mostly RC.

  2. #12

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    I'm another strong Pyrocat advocate. I use it for both sheet films and roll films. I mix it myself - from scratch and I use Propylene Glycol as the A Solution solvent instead of water - it keeps for years that way.
    Tom Hoskinson
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  3. #13
    Guillaume Zuili's Avatar
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    WD2D+ is amazing for Tri-X. Otherwise Pyrocat HD is excellent too with many film.

  4. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by craigclu View Post
    I've found that if I start an untested film at 1/2 of its ISO rating, I tend to be in the ballpark for easily printed negatives that show good shadow detail without blowing the highlights.
    Is that for printing on graded or VC paper? I'm under the impression that the nature of the stain lets you develop less with graded, which I would think leads to faster apparent film ratings for a given development time. I know that Sandy King has written that pyrocat gets full speed.

  5. #15

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    Depends on what I am doing.

    WD2D+ is well, amazing stuff. A PITB to process with if you are the rotate/ invert three times a minute guy, like I am with Rodinal. You have to agitate 15 seconds out of every 30.

    But when you see the LF negatives... I use it in a Patterson Sytem 4 tank with the film in tubes inside the big tank. 4x5 APX 100, 2x3 HP5. Use the numbers given in the pamplet...

    I do my 5x7 in a rotary tank. I found Pyrocat HD to be the most consistant.
    I have used DIXactol on some 120 films and it looks like it's a fine developer too. Kinda twitchy with the saving of Solution B and whatnot but... it does work nicely (when you don't use solution B first (don't ask)).

    All my 135 is done in Rodinal or 777.


    Haven't tried ABC or rollo, don't see the need.

    I don't think you can go wrong.

    tim in san jose
    Where ever you are, there you be.

  6. #16

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    Thank you all for your replies.

    Quote Originally Posted by craigclu View Post
    I've had best luck with more dilute, longer timed, less agitated routines which takes some advantage of the subtle edge effects capable with the developer.
    What dilution do you use, what time compensation and what degree of agitation do you use?

    Quote Originally Posted by Guillaume Zuili View Post
    WD2D+ is amazing for Tri-X. Otherwise Pyrocat HD is excellent too with many film.
    What are its benefits for Tri-X?
    Do you scan your negatives?

    Quote Originally Posted by k_jupiter View Post
    WD2D+ is well, amazing stuff.
    What are the differences you see between WS2D+ and Pyrocat HD? Do you scan your begatives?

    Quote Originally Posted by k_jupiter View Post
    All my 135 is done in Rodinal or 777.
    For what reasons? Do you use the 777 in small tanks, hand agitation? Do you mix the 777 from scratch, or do you buy it ready made? If you mix it from scratch, by which formula? If you buy it, where from?

  7. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by Joshua_G View Post

    What are the differences you see between WS2D+ and Pyrocat HD? Do you scan your begatives?

    For what reasons? Do you use the 777 in small tanks, hand agitation? Do you mix the 777 from scratch, or do you buy it ready made? If you mix it from scratch, by which formula? If you buy it, where from?
    Subtle differences. Bottom end on WD2D+ expands the shadow area. There is more there. I would guess you would say that means it increases film speed, but it doesn't affect the midtones or the highlights. Pyrocat HD is a very good developer though. You won't go wrong basing your whole system upon it. I can't scan 5x7 negatives. I will scan a 2x3 (in WD2D+) sometime this weekend.

    777 - gives a different smoky look to my 35mm stuff. I used the formula in the article posted on DigitalTruth. I use small tank, reusing the developer, replenishing from a virgin bottle of 777 I have set aside. You can buy it (I think) from some place in Kentucky.

    tim in san jose
    Where ever you are, there you be.

  8. #18

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    Thanks, Tim. Please update with the results of your scans.

  9. #19

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    Which staining developers would be recommended for getting good results at 400 with Tri-X or 800+ with Neopan 1600?

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