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Thread: Ortho Films?

  1. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by dmax View Post
    May or may not fit your exact requirements, but Freestyle's APHS, which is primarily designed as a graphic arts film, may work. Abundant in various sizes, and is very inexpensive. Development under a red safelight is also built in. There are many posts here about how to process APHS in different developers for different applications, including in-camera shooting. My estimated EI for APHS in bright daylight is about ISO 4 or thereabouts.
    I have shot a lot of this stuff. I shoot it at iso 6 and develop it in very dilute (1:150) rodinal for about 7 minutes ( by inspection) with very minimal agitation. There is a shot on my gallery called roadside lake where I have used Freestyle's ortho lith film. I get good tonal gradation with the very dilute rodinal.
    Rick Jason.
    "I'm still developing"

  2. #12

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    If you order APHS for your 4X5 DON'T order the 4X5 film. It won't fit your holder. Instead order the 3.9X4.9 size. It fits like a glove.

  3. #13
    nick mulder's Avatar
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    Cleared the bowel problem, working on the consonants...

  4. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by nick mulder View Post
    TIGHT. Any idea what the speed is for exposure in camera? Or how to decipher it from their exposure notes for copy work?

    Aww. Freestyle only has it in really large formats. I hate cutting down film...I can never get it totally straight or just the right size.
    Last edited by maxbloom; 10-29-2007 at 04:51 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  5. #15

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    Also, their fixing notes recommend a much longer fix time than Formulary recommends on the bottle of TF4 that I generally use. Which should I follow?

  6. #16
    sun of sand's Avatar
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    I was going to create my own thread earlier this morning but I may get my answer here

    I bought some Kodalith
    I tried a few sheets in Dektol around 1:9 and at ASA 3-5
    It's coming along ok, I guess

    Thing is
    The negative comes out Brown&White as opposed to Black&White
    Why?

  7. #17
    Michel Hardy-Vallée's Avatar
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    I've used the Adox and the Maco Ortho films in 35mm, and in Rodinal 1+100, 11' for an exposure index of 25 was pretty good. I think they are the same film, but from what I've read the Rollei ortho is a different one.

    At any rate, the advantages of true ortho films over pan+filter is that you get the extra-fine grain of ortho (always finer than Pan of the same speed) and the ability to develop under red safelight.
    Using film since before it was hip.


    "One of the most singular characters of the hyposulphites, is the property their solutions possess of dissolving muriate of silver and retaining it in considerable quantity in permanent solution" — Sir John Frederick William Herschel, "On the Hyposulphurous Acid and its Compounds." The Edinburgh Philosophical Journal, Vol. 1 (8 Jan. 1819): 8-29. p. 11

    My APUG Portfolio

  8. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by sun of sand View Post
    I was going to create my own thread earlier this morning but I may get my answer here

    I bought some Kodalith
    I tried a few sheets in Dektol around 1:9 and at ASA 3-5
    It's coming along ok, I guess

    Thing is
    The negative comes out Brown&White as opposed to Black&White
    Why?
    Dektol is an interesting choice. Most people (myself included) develop the stuff by inspection either in really dilute HC-110 or Rodinal.

    As for the brown in the negative, are you sure you're fixing properly?

  9. #19
    sun of sand's Avatar
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    I sure thought I was fixing properly. I fix Tmax the same way and see no brown coloring. I've heard of dichroic fog but that sounds like it's more metallic
    This
    I'll just attach a negative. This one isn't my best test shot/development but it's all I have scanned and is very representative
    Anything? It still prints the same


    Also
    when using orthochromatic material what filters can one use?
    Obviously orange and red are out
    Blue would only lighten the sky even more, right?
    Green would perhaps darken the sky a little and whiten greens?
    Any way to create a cloud filter?
    I was thinking of trying multigrade filters. Maybe a 4 filter
    Does it work like that? More magenta=darkening blue sky with red component but keep the light visible due to the blue base of magenta and thus differentiate clouds
    It seem since you can use these filters on orthochromatic papers they must have some effect on film
    Last edited by sun of sand; 12-06-2007 at 12:53 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  10. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by maxbloom View Post
    • ADOX ORT25
    • EFKE PL 25 ORT (Same as ADOX?)
    • Rollei Ortho 25 (Same again? These three are all FK, no?)
    • Ilford Ortho Plus (Gone from Freestyle website...)
    • Maco/FK PO 100c (I'll have to call freestyle about this one...)


    Are there others I've forgotten?
    Or not encountered? From Google search for,
    Valley Litho . Check out the process films
    within the offset printing section. Dan

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