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  1. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by Drac View Post
    "why test? after all the manufacturer has tested the materials already, far better than any amatuer photographer could or should"

    In which case why are you rating the film at half iso?

    excellent question Drac

    because I'm not sure how or why the tester sets exposure, i just know that for me, the lighting i photogrtaph in, the way i set exposure and the way i dev and print, this gives me great shadow detail and good highlights

    Ray

  2. #12
    Cor
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    Bromide drag

    Another problem with semi- stand can be bromide drag, 2 years ago I made a quick web page about this (35mm PanF & Rodinal)

    See http://breukel.fol.nl/StandDevelopment.html

    Best,

    Cor

  3. #13
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    I have to agree that 60mins for 1+100 is very long development time. Rule of thumb for rodinal is 6xtime_for_1+50_dillution for 1+200. So you will have nearly hour for 1+200. And moreover, if you pulled fomapan, you have even to shorten development time. E.g.: Rodinal 1+50 for fomapan200 gives about 9min. So 6x9 for 1+200 is 55mins. For pulling it will be 2/3 ? Don't know for this film. But I think that pulling fomapan200 is useless ...

  4. #14
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    Mike, with semi-stand you will get box speed on most films and developers (pyrocat & rodinal). You may also get better than box speed for some scenes. Some prints may actually improve with black shadows. Throw away the BTZS stuff for this one and just play, snip and play some more. Sounds like a "true learning experience" again. Ah, the joys of photography!. Best, tim

  5. #15
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    Mike,

    I think you worry to much. Do a little sensitometry, develop the Foma to an N-1 when you encounter harsh lighting conditions. Develop in whatever gives you the grain and sharpness you prefer and you will find life to be easier than you expected.

    best

    Stefan

  6. #16
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    Also, how do you know what ISO you are using without testing your equipment? Shutter speed, iris calibration, lens transmission, etc. Knowledge of all these goes into knowledge of the actual ISO you are using. I may find that I must use the box speed to get the same result another gets with half or twice the box speed. Furthermore, the manufacturing tolerance is or used to be 1/3 f-stop in speed.
    Gadget Gainer

  7. #17
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    Mike, I test my film for minimal agitation using BTZS methods if I can get sheet film as the same emulsion Shooting roll film, I just develop at SBR 7.5 for a typical roll. I bought a 25-sheet box of 4x5 Fomapan and made my tests - then shot the rest in my Speed Graphic.
    juan

  8. #18

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    [QUOTE=mikepry;538667]I have recently aquired a Leica lllc and thought I'd try to do semi stand development with Rodinal. I thought this would be a great way to get in the ballpark so to speak with 36 exposures/roll not always having the same lighting situations. I am coming from Large Format work in 8/10 where I use BTZS to expose each sheet individually for the given range of light.

    Do what you know, the BTZS like the zone system can be used with roll film. Buy a bulk loader and load 6 to 12 frames rather than buy 36 exposures, bracket, and test your film using the BTZS methods.

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drac View Post
    "why test? after all the manufacturer has tested the materials already, far better than any amatuer photographer could or should"

    In which case why are you rating the film at half iso?
    Not true. Testing by the manufacturer establishes baselines for average all around performance, for acceptable, but average, results, for "normal" printing. Box speed is merely a reference for the advanced photographer. Different exposure conditions, developers, developing regimens, printing styles, printing processes, and personal preference for grain structure, density, and contrast determine a photographers personal rating for a particular emulsion. If I shot box speed, many of my negatives would be very difficult, or impossible for me to print.

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by JBrunner View Post
    Not true. Testing by the manufacturer establishes baselines for average all around performance, for acceptable, but average, results, for "normal" printing. Box speed is merely a reference for the advanced photographer. Different exposure conditions, developers, developing regimens, printing styles, printing processes, and personal preference for grain structure, density, and contrast determine a photographers personal rating for a particular emulsion. If I shot box speed, many of my negatives would be very difficult, or impossible for me to print.
    But when you find that box speed will not work for you, is that after you have calibrated your equipment? I would never deny you the right to calibrate your whole setup by adjusting ISO setting to make your pictures be what you want them to be, but could you, or in fact would you, say dogmatically that the same setting would work for me? Given enough experience, most of us will begin to suspect shutter or f-stop errors if they are there. I am not telling you anything new, and in fact you should forget I mentioned it, but maybe some of us should consider when we make recommendations that the other guy might have to use twice box speed to get the same result you get with half. Maybe their equipment is not up to snuff. It happens even to Leica. That is why the older ones have shutter curtain adjustments.
    Gadget Gainer

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