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  1. #11

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    Lootens on Photographic Enlarging and Print Quality by J. Ghislain Lootens published by Amphoto, Library of Congress Number 61-12971 Has an excellent chapter on this subject.
    Regards
    Bill

  2. #12
    Jim Fitzgerald's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by richard ide View Post
    Jim
    Speedopaque is the type used for spotting line/lith negatives for printers or very high contrast work. Works like a watercolour paint. It was one of the better ones available. A relatively concentrated solution of Crocein Scarlet will work similar to Speedopaque but cannot be removed easily in case of error in application.
    Richard, thanks. So, with different dilutions I should be able to match the density of the negative. Is that the proper method? I have some badly scratched 8x10 negs that I can try it on. Naturally these were nice shots that were ruined by the scratches. I'm still trying to figure out how they got scratched. I would try matching the density on the base side, correct? Thanks.

    Jim

  3. #13

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    I think new crotein is for altering local contrast. More a way to emphasize highlights than to repair scratches. For scratches a black pen drawn over the scratch and spot the print. I think.
    Regards
    Bill
    Last edited by cowanw; 11-08-2007 at 03:39 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  4. #14
    Charles Webb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Fitzgerald View Post
    Charlie, I just found in my Adams retouching machine a small plastic box that says Grumbacher 1445 SpeedOpaque for film negatives. Is this similar to the Scarlet Crocein? It looks to be a reddish color.

    Jim

    Jim,
    Quick and easy. If it appears in a dry cake form like water colors used in a pallet, it is for Line film and the graphic arts guys working in prepress stripping.

    If it is a red powder dry and loose in a bottle or jar it most likely to be Neu Cocein or Crocein scarlet. It is a very fine ground powder.

    Charlie.............................

  5. #15
    Charles Webb's Avatar
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    Cowanw,
    You are correct, Corcein Scarlet is not normally used for scratches but can work if applied with 00000 or smaller brush. A tiny drop is carfully allowed to fill the scratch. Then let dry. it will make a grayish to white spot on the print then spot the print the gray to white depends on the dilution you choose. When using a black india ink and000 or 0000 Rapidiograph pen it is best to work on the base side rather than the emulsion. Both scarlets work best with large 4x5 or better negatives. Niether of them work real well for softening or totally eliminating hard scratches.

    Charlie....................................

  6. #16
    Curt's Avatar
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    http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...cine_1_oz.html


    It's listed on B&H's web site... as discontinued...
    Everytime I find a film or paper that I like, they discontinue it. - Paul Strand - Aperture monograph on Strand

  7. #17
    Charles Webb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phil View Post
    I recently purchased an ounce of Crocein Scarlet in powder form on eBay - the seller still has more listed. It appears to be similar to what Kodak used to sell in the little brown glass bottles.

    I found mixing and usage instructions here:
    According to "Lootens on Photographic Printing and Enlarging" you begin with
    six two ounce bottles, flat covers and one dropper, some 28% Amonia and the
    red powder.

    http://www.usask.ca/lists/alt-photo-...feb02/0313.htm
    Phil,
    And others using the red dye's, I am quite familiar with
    Looten and his fine book, however I must disagree a bit with his instructions. What he says will indeed work, but his instructions are total overkill! The six bottle bit is a great idea, but I found that to mix up a stock solution
    with plain old tap water will last for a lot of years. Using the premixed as he suggest sounds great, in reality when put to use none of the dilutions will be exactly right for your neg, then you have to do more fiddling. Using a single stock solution, dip your tiny brush into the stock bottle and dab it onto a small white plate. Next apply a drop of water close to the dye. Drag out a bit of clear water then pull out the smallest amount of scarlet you can and let it flow into the water. The pale pink is what you want to start with. Add more of the scarlet to the same drop until you get the dilution that is best for your negative. BTW, I attended several of Looten's work shops, He was and they were very informitive. A little drop of Photoflow in the water is a benefit, but I could see no improvment using ammonia in it. Just my experience...........................

    Charlie..................................

    Another suggestion, is when the mixed drop drys just leave it alone until tthe next time you need to do some dye work. Just dip your tiny brush in clear water and apply it to the dried scarlet, it instantly comes back to life. I have a plate covered with different dry dye mixtures that I use for a pallet. Keep the dust off of it, it will work for a long time.
    Last edited by Charles Webb; 11-08-2007 at 05:55 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  8. #18

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    Here is the culprit of which I spoke. I scanned the neg and cropped to show you just the scratch in the cloud area. This is a scan of a negative, in positive format.

    I am really new to spotting. What would you do with this? Should I try to fix the neg?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails rocks lake and sky-001-scratch.jpg  

  9. #19
    Jon Shiu's Avatar
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    Hi, I would just spot the print. You could try some "no-scratch" or nose oil on the neg.

    Jon
    Mendocino Coast Black and White Photography: www.jonshiu.com

  10. #20
    richard ide's Avatar
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    You use six bottles when you are using this stuff a lot. You get to know the density increase with each and sometimes a 9 x 9 negative might have 25% or more of it's surface adjusted. There might be 2 or 3 dilutions used on a negative as well as multiple applications for in between values. Apply with Qtip or cotton pad.
    Richard

    Why are there no speaker jacks on a stereo camera?

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