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  1. #11
    Michel Hardy-Vallée's Avatar
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    Here's the long answer I wrote in the old articles section:
    http://www.apug.org/forums/forum216/...much-fuss.html

    Short answer: if you start from 35mm, contact print them on either 5302 or 2302, develop in Dektol stock, starting time 5mins.

    The Leitz ELDIA is a great tool for doing B&W slides by contact printing, and it's the cheapest Leica you'll ever have.
    Using film since before it was hip.


    "One of the most singular characters of the hyposulphites, is the property their solutions possess of dissolving muriate of silver and retaining it in considerable quantity in permanent solution" — Sir John Frederick William Herschel, "On the Hyposulphurous Acid and its Compounds." The Edinburgh Philosophical Journal, Vol. 1 (8 Jan. 1819): 8-29. p. 11

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  2. #12

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    I do this pretty often. I contact pring large format negatives onto ortho film. I then develop the ortho film in Dektol diluted about 1:9. I use the Dektol for one or two negatives and then throw it away. The negatives come out very very good this way.

    I have recently run across a formula for ortho film that is made to develop ortho film in continuous tone just for this purpose. I have yet to try it, but I will the very next time I make some inter-positives. Here is alink to the article and formula:

    http://members.aol.com/fotodave/Articles/LC-1.html

    please let us know if you try this. It sounds promising.

    I like using the ortho film quite a bit. It is easy to work with under safelight, very thin, no grain and it has a lot of density latitude.

    You can also enlarge small negatives onto it very easily, just treat it as though it is paper.

    -R

  3. #13
    Jim Noel's Avatar
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    LC-1 works very well. I use it for in camera negatives made on lith film.
    [FONT=Comic Sans MS]Films NOT Dead - Just getting fixed![/FONT]

  4. #14
    dr5chrome's Avatar
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    ..if your goal is to produce this in your darkroom, graphic-arts film is the solution as most have mentioned. A reversal B&W process is not going to help you in this case. All you will do is create an interpositive from a negative [a negative copy]. In color there used to be VPF print film and i have seen this used successfully for B&W, though the results were not optimal.

    We have had a better solution for this problem by using a film recorder. Depending on how much you want to spend the results can be just as good as the original. Today you can buy an 8K CRT film recorder for around 3500$ [with software]. if you have many images to produce this might be your best option.

    dw

    www.dr5.com
    www.filmrecording.net

  5. #15
    Mike Wilde's Avatar
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    difficult is all a matter of resources

    I regularly make masks to add a white text titles to photos when I am making up head shot prints for actor acqaintances from 35mm negs.

    I too use 5032 fine grained positive release. It is ortho, only blue sensitive, so it can be handled under amber safelight (maybe red too -haven't tried it yet) It also has a very clear base.

    I load it into my 35mm slr camera, set the shutter to B, aperture to 5.6 or so, and then mount the camera onto a tripod with the head reversed, to allow the camera to point down onto the material being shot, which in my case is a laser printer output, with 36 point text in the lower right corner.

    I look through the viewfinder and adjust tripod height to have the draft untitled print fill the viewscreen. Then I lay the title sheet over it to put it in the right place to overlay the title text. Open the shutter, and give enouigh pops oin the ring flash or other falsh to get the exposure. This film has an asa of about 6, so dim ambient artificial lighting works out ok for the time the shutter is open.

    I proceed to develop the film section I have just shot in the darkroom. I usually do one name per 4 frames to give me some extra film base to manipulate the film bit with without laying tongs onto the one frame I want.

    First developer is D76 for pictorial contrast, or D-19 for high contrast. I add about 4g/l of thiocyanate (in my case sodium - I have it on hand) to this first developer. Then a rinse in water for a stop after the required development time (needs to be experimented with to find the right time in first dev to yield white highlights in the finished product).

    Bleach in dichromate bath. Toxic, yes, but I use it many many times til it turns green and dies off, and then it goes to the hazardous waster depot.

    Water rinse then clearing bath of weak sulfite. Then rinse and second developer in whatever paper developer I have at hand, rinse then fix til 2x clearing time.

    Once dry I sandwich the mask in the negative carrier with neg from the head shot I producted the draft print for. The result is the black last printer text 36 point is now a black area where white text is to be printed , to come out very close to 36 point white in the final print.

    To print these in 120 I use Kadalith, and if I want pictorial use, develop it in a very low contrast first developer, usally one called t/o xdr4.

  6. #16

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    Here's a resource you may be interested in - http://www.photosensitive.ca/wp/meth...cing-bw-slides

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