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  1. #11
    Travis Nunn's Avatar
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    If you have no old brown to add, just take a piece of paper out into the light and let it sit in the developer while you are getting everything else set up. That way it "seasons" the developer a little for your first print.
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  2. #12

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    Are these Prints the first prints or a few later

    If these are your first couple of prints then it could be that the developer has not been seasoned enough. It takes a couple prints before the Lith really Liths unless you add some of the old developer from your last batch.

  3. #13
    Andrew Moxom's Avatar
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    IF I am reading your question correctly, it seems you need to increase contrast? If that's the case, then more exposure is not what you need. Reduce the exposure by 1/4 stop and lith develop to see what happens. I've found that doubling normal print exposure/dev is usually about right, but the contrast can be tweaked either way by increasing exposure to reduce contrast, and reducing exposure to increase contrast works well. It's finding the balance that takes time, and lots of paper!!

  4. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by keeds View Post
    Safelight not bright enough to gauge the blacks.
    No problem if using Graded paper. Easy to see the
    print's progress using safelights geared to blue
    sensitive only papers.

    FWIW by adjusting exposure and development
    lith processing makes a VC paper of any
    Graded paper. Dan

  5. #15
    Gay Larson's Avatar
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    I agree you need stronger developer, I use LD20 and used the instructions at first, then I took Tim Rudman's class and he said to use stronger development to get the more contrasty, lithy look. In class we used 1-9. Increasing or decreasing your exposure time controls the highlights and the contrast. I also use forte warmtone and Kentona but you might try Fomtone MG classic warmtone for an different look. Get those books out of storage. I have mine in the darkroom at all times. Good Luck.
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  6. #16

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    Thanks for all the help. I've yet to give them a try but plenty to play with when I do, thanks.

  7. #17
    Thomas Bertilsson's Avatar
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    After the fact, for what it's worth, I don't want to contradict Tim Rudman and his genius, but I've had no problem at all getting good contrast with the recommended dilutions from Fotospeed. I've made it work by adjusting the contrast and using lots of developer. I mix 3 liters of working solution every time and keep it at about 75*F.
    Attached print is on Fomatone in Fotospeed LD20 developer at the recommended dilution. I think you need to experiment more with exposure. If your negs usually are thin, the exposure will be rather short and your development times long, but it can certainly be done.
    With that said, I can see how a stronger solution would be more active, not exhausting in the shadow area as much and developing those blacks quickly with the highlights pretty much intact.
    I think for your situation a combination of shorter exposures and stronger developer would be the best solution.
    - Thomas
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  8. #18

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    I use LD20 in my lith developing, usually at 1-to-15...gives me a little more control than speedy 1-to-9. I've lith printed with Kentona and have had very little to complain about...I think it liths quite nicely.

  9. #19

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    Stronger dilution and some old brown at 1+4 has helped greatly. Not all the way there yet but I'm seeing more of what I was expecting, thanks for all the help.

  10. #20
    Willie Jan's Avatar
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    I use foma baryta based paper for this.
    I develop in moersch lith developer 20cc of A and 20cc of B.
    First 2 prints are not coloured much. Add old developer to increase from start.
    Overexpose about 1 stop.

    You will get rich colors:
    http://www.foto-art.nl

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