Switch to English Language Passer en langue française Omschakelen naar Nederlandse Taal Wechseln Sie zu deutschen Sprache Passa alla lingua italiana
Members: 69,727   Posts: 1,515,105   Online: 1199
      
Page 5 of 6 FirstFirst 123456 LastLast
Results 41 to 50 of 56
  1. #41
    lee
    lee is offline
    lee's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Location
    Fort Worth TX
    Shooter
    8x10 Format
    Posts
    2,913
    Images
    8
    Philippe,

    here is a good pyro developer that you can leave out the Pyrogallol and add 5 g of citric acid that will last all day in an open tray. Use de-mineralized water. Don't freak out that the developer is orange. Gives strong blacks nice highlites and good mid tone graduation. If it is not clear this is a paper developer.

    http://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/Py.../pyroplus.html

    lee\c
    Last edited by lee; 12-01-2007 at 08:34 AM. Click to view previous post history.

  2. #42
    eclarke's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    New Berlin, Wi
    Shooter
    ULarge Format
    Posts
    1,935
    Images
    71
    "BTW, I am a Pyrocat-MC user. Most of my development is with minimal or semi-stand agitation. BTW, I get excellent results with Sheet film. 35mm and 120 roll film as well.
    __________________
    Tom Hoskinson"

    I agree with Tom about the MC. I develop Tmax 400 in MC in a Jobo and the results are excellent. My neighbor and I both do LF and have darkrooms so we spend much time comparing notes. My first negs with this combination took our breath away....EC

  3. #43

    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Greenville, SC
    Shooter
    Large Format
    Posts
    4,813
    Images
    5
    Quote Originally Posted by dslater View Post
    Hi Sandy,
    I have witnessed a number of these pyro wars and I can hardly blame you for staying away. It's unfortunate and is a loss for the rest of us.
    Just to clarify, I have no intention to avoid all discussions of pyro developers. To the contrary, as the creator of the Pyrocat family I am happy to provide information about the qualities and recommendations for development of these developers whenever I can.

    However, I don't promote the Pyrocats by criticizing other developers, and certainly not PMK, which was my primary developer for over ten years. In fact, part of the genesis of Pyrocat-HD is directly related to my use of and knowledge of how PMK works. My main goal was to produce a formula that would work well in BTZS tubes and with stand development and I felt that the use of pyrocatechin, which oxidizes more slowly than pyrogallol, might work better in these two specific applications.

    In answer to Rob's original question, I think he would be very happy with either PMK or Pyrocat-HD. They are much more like each other than either is to a traditional developer like D76. Just pick one and learn to use it would be my advice.

    Sandy King

  4. #44
    schroeg's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    101
    Images
    21
    I am very happy with the Pyrocat-HD (glycol) / T-Max 100 combination as a nimble solution to do just about anything. I print these negs with a V-54 cold light lamp and the results are quite nice. Over time I think I have cut down on the amount of paper I use due to the relative ease of printing these negs. My previous combination was Bergger / PMK which was wonderful but more difficult to pin down precisely.

  5. #45
    Philippe-Georges's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Flanders Fields
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    722
    Quote Originally Posted by lee View Post
    Philippe,

    here is a good pyro developer that you can leave out the Pyrogallol and add 5 g of citric acid that will last all day in an open tray. Use de-mineralized water. Don't freak out that the developer is orange. Gives strong blacks nice highlites and good mid tone graduation. If it is not clear this is a paper developer.

    http://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/Py.../pyroplus.html

    lee\c
    Thank you Lee, I will certainly try this one!

    Philippe
    "...If you can not stand the rustle of the leafs, then do not go in to the woods..."
    (freely translated quote by Guido Gezelle)

    PS: English is only my third language, please do forgive me my sloppy grammar...

  6. #46
    gainer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Posts
    3,726
    Images
    2
    So far I have found that I can use pyrogallol or catechol in the part A of Pyroxxx MC. Different colored stains result, as one would expect. The amount of pyrogallol needs be only 2/3 the amunt of catechol for similar activity. I have also learned that Pyrocat MC A used with PMK B in the proportions 1:1:25 makes very good FP4+ negatives by stand development for 24 minutes. I am about to test PMK A with the carbonate B of the Pyrocat series. I suspect the higher pH will require more dilute solution or shorter development times. If it seems to be something an old man would do to keep from being bored, you are right.

    What I am trying to learn is how few stock solutions must be kept in order to have at hand the choice of the two different colored stains as well as the choice of the other characteristic differences between Pyrocat XX and PMK developers.
    Gadget Gainer

  7. #47

    Join Date
    May 2005
    Shooter
    4x5 Format
    Posts
    159
    FP4 with PyrocatMC is the best combinations for me, use dilutions 1:4:100 semistand 24 minutes

  8. #48

    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Greenville, SC
    Shooter
    Large Format
    Posts
    4,813
    Images
    5
    Quote Originally Posted by gainer View Post
    So far I have found that I can use pyrogallol or catechol in the part A of Pyroxxx MC. Different colored stains result, as one would expect. The amount of pyrogallol needs be only 2/3 the amunt of catechol for similar activity. I have also learned that Pyrocat MC A used with PMK B in the proportions 1:1:25 makes very good FP4+ negatives by stand development for 24 minutes. I am about to test PMK A with the carbonate B of the Pyrocat series. I suspect the higher pH will require more dilute solution or shorter development times. If it seems to be something an old man would do to keep from being bored, you are right.

    What I am trying to learn is how few stock solutions must be kept in order to have at hand the choice of the two different colored stains as well as the choice of the other characteristic differences between Pyrocat XX and PMK developers.
    Very interesting. Thanks for posting these results. I am surprised that you got that much developer activity from the Pyrocat MC A with the PMK B solution. I tried it a couple of times and never saw much activity, but I did not use nearly as much of B solution as you have used. As for PMK A with Pyrocat B I am certain that you will have to shorten development time a lot, or use a weaker dilution as the different in working pH will be very great, about 9.6 for metaborate compared to about 10.9 with carbonate.

    Sandy

  9. #49
    gainer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Posts
    3,726
    Images
    2
    A snip test showed I needed 1 part of PMK A, 1 part of Pyrocat B and 100 parts of water to get the developing time down to about 8 minutes. It works, but I don't care much for the gradations. I have to start a new test roll to be sure, as I only had one complete frame left of the bracketted exposures, but even though all the detail was visible in the negative, it seemed to be too much soot and charcoal, and MG filtering didn't seem to be the cure. These are times when I wish for a 3-color densitometer.

    The Pyrocat A + metaborate seemed to be something like 1/4 the activity of the usual Pyrocat working solution. I didn't feel like attending to a long period of agitation, so took a chance on the 24 minutes of standing. I didn't even do the semi- part, just went off and watched the tube. There was no visible base fog on the FP4+ and the prints were easy to do from all three of the bracketted exposures. If anyone wants to try it, I diluted 2:2:50 and stood it for 24 minutes.
    Gadget Gainer

  10. #50

    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    971
    Quote Originally Posted by lee View Post
    Philippe,

    here is a good pyro developer that you can leave out the Pyrogallol and add 5 g of citric acid that will last all day in an open tray. Use de-mineralized water. Don't freak out that the developer is orange. Gives strong blacks nice highlites and good mid tone graduation. If it is not clear this is a paper developer.

    http://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/Py.../pyroplus.html

    lee\c
    Although this is a bit off-topic, it is very interesting. The article says that leaving out the pyrogallol gives low contrast results. Is that your experience, Lee? As was pointed out by a previous poster, pyrogallol is a lot more expensive than pyrocatechol. Is the citric acid only a preservative, or does it somehow make up for the lack of pyrogallol?

Page 5 of 6 FirstFirst 123456 LastLast


 

APUG PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Contact Us  |  Support Us!  |  Advertise  |  Site Terms  |  Archive  —   Search  |  Mobile Device Access  |  RSS  |  Facebook  |  Linkedin