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Turpentine,et al..
Blimey- such a wealth of information ; my thanks to all.
If I go the turpentine route, I assume Artists Distilled Turpentine would be preferable to the paint store variety??
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I would not do it. Turps dries into a filmy scum.
Put some on a shiny surface and let it set for a few days. It will form something that is akin to tree sap. Well, thats what it is, really.
PE
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I don't remember seeing a scratch in the emulsion that could be cured by nose oil or equivalent. Scratches in 35 mm are usually caused by the pressure plate. Zeiss, I believe, had a camera in which the pressure plate was lifted during transport. Leitz film cartridges for the early Leicas had no felt lips, but a gate that was opened after the back was closed. I had one of those once upon a time. It worked on an early Canon RF I had.
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all the past pro labs Ive worked in have hidden scratches of that nature with nose oil its a tried and true method, just make sure to wash the negative after its printed.
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silicone oil works very well. There are different viscosities to the oil... I want to say to the product is called silicone 200, but I can't remember if the 200 is the viscosity or the product.
If you email me at prints (at) hiddenlightllc.com I can verify it for you.
But nose grease works in most cases for sure!
Good Luck,
Corey
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Motion picture labs use perchlorethelene in wet gate operations, but I suggest highly that you leave that chemical alone -- your kidneys and nervous system will thank you.
I spent 13 years around that solvent and it is nasty, nasty stuff -- de-fats your skin on contact and gets into your circulation system almost instantly. I get a headache just thinking about it...
If you are going to mess with it, use nitrile gloves and an organic vapor respirator along with full lab coat and safety glasses to avoid eye splashes.
Good luck on disposal -- it will cost you plenty $$.
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