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Thread: X-TOL question

  1. #11
    brian steinberger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trey View Post
    So will the grain be more and more apparent the further I dilute the developer?
    Yes, but Kodak doesn't recommend nor even recognize the 1:3 dilution with Xtol anymore. It is still feasible, but you need to use atleast 150ml of stock Xtol per roll of 135, 120, or 4 4x5 sheets of film. Alot of times with small tanks this can't be accomplished.

    I was in this boat at one time, then decided to simply use a 400 speed film (with medium format) and dilute 1:1 and discard after eash use. Very consistant results. Must mention the film I'm using with great results is Fuji Neopan 400 in Xtol 1:1 for 8 minutes at 68 degrees.

    Good Luck!

  2. #12
    Alex Bishop-Thorpe's Avatar
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    I usually use it 1+1 and dump, hasn't done me any harm after what must be around 80 rolls. I used to use 1+2 and 1+3, but the economy wasn't worth the messing about for me, and Kodak doesn't recommend high dilutions any more.
    It's lovely with Pan F+ at stock too, 7 minutes - example here.
    The Analogue Laboratory, or 'so you built a darkroom in an old factory in the industrial zone'.
    Blog thing!.

    Worry less. Photograph more.

  3. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by Trey View Post
    So will the grain be more and more apparent the further I dilute the developer?
    A little bit. Depending on the composition, you may or may not notice it. Grain structure is more dependent upon the film than the developer. All other variables being equal, the image with large areas of near continuous tone in the middle ranges will show more grain than an image with a more varied composition. and, as I wrote earlier, the differences don't really start to show up until you reach about 10x magnification. At that size, you'll be viewing the print froma further distance and the grain becomes less obvious.

    What I'm trying to say here is don't sweat it!

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trey View Post
    So will the grain be more and more apparent the further I dilute the developer?
    Yes, but your image will appear sharper, too.

    The same principles that make your image sharper make the grain sharper, too. After all, grain is simply undesired detail on your negative. (I shouldn't use blanket statements like "undesired"; in some circumstances, grain really makes the image.)

    Similarly, using undiluted or less-diluted solvent developers like XTOL and D-76/ID-11 results in less grain, but diminished image sharpness. The same principles that make grain less sharp and more invisible make your image details less sharp.
    Jim MacKenzie - Regina, Saskatchewan, Canada

    A bunch of Nikons; Feds, Zorkis and a Kiev; Pentax 67-II (inherited from my deceased father-in-law); Bronica SQ-A; and a nice Shen Hao 4x5 field camera with 3 decent lenses that needs to be taken outside more. Oh, and as of mid-2012, one of those bodies we don't talk about here.

    Favourite film: do I need to pick only one?

  5. #15
    Ian Grant's Avatar
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    I've always replenished Xtol, and before that ID-11 (D76), ID-68 (Microphen) etc. I make up 5 litres and use 2.5 litres as the working solution and the rest to replenish it.

    The advantages are far better grain, sharpness & tonality once the working solution has ripened, in fact the results are closer to using Xtol diluted 1+2.

    Ian

  6. #16
    dpurdy's Avatar
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    I process a lot of film. Monday is film day and multiple people bring their film to me. I do over a thousand rolls a year. I use XTOL because I can re use it. I mix 10 liters for my developer tank with a floating lid and I run 150 rolls a film through it undiluted. In general I figure +15% every 50 rolls but in reality I do smaller more frequent increments than that. I have been doing this for 15 years. Though I have gone through phases of diluting 1-1 and 1-2. I like straight because the extended developing time gets too long with the diluted developer. I have printed from this all these years as well and I have always been impressed that the 150th roll in the tank prints just as well as the 1st roll. I date and number the rolls I process as well as track the date and number of rolls I have put through a batch of developer so I can see differences and really I can't see any differences.
    Dennis

  7. #17
    Ian Grant's Avatar
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    Dennis, like you I'm often processing 15-20 rolls of film at time and re-using the developer makes a lot more sense, its faster, easier & very economic, and what many forget is these developers were designed to be used like this.

    Ian

  8. #18
    dpurdy's Avatar
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    It was a Kodak rep who gave me the extension guide lines. So I think it is as you say.
    Dennis

  9. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by dpurdy View Post
    I process a lot of film. Monday is film day and multiple people bring their film to me. I do over a thousand rolls a year. I use XTOL because I can re use it. I mix 10 liters for my developer tank with a floating lid and I run 150 rolls a film through it undiluted. In general I figure +15% every 50 rolls but in reality I do smaller more frequent increments than that. I have been doing this for 15 years. Though I have gone through phases of diluting 1-1 and 1-2. I like straight because the extended developing time gets too long with the diluted developer. I have printed from this all these years as well and I have always been impressed that the 150th roll in the tank prints just as well as the 1st roll. I date and number the rolls I process as well as track the date and number of rolls I have put through a batch of developer so I can see differences and really I can't see any differences.
    Dennis
    How long do you feel it lasts in a deep tank? Not quantity of film processed, but length of time in the tank.

  10. #20

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    1:3 equivalent, oneshot. Diluted from freshly mixed stock.
    As 5 liters doesn't fit in a nominal 1 gallon jug I do the math to get 1:3 from slightly more concentrated stock

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