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Thread: Stop baths

  1. #21

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    Quote Originally Posted by Les McLean View Post
    I have already said I use water and perhaps I should qualify that a little further. Many have said that the stop bath prolongs the life of fixer which is quite true but IMO it opens the door to the possibility of over working the fixer so I only use my fixer twice for films and if printing all day I change the paper fixer when I break for lunch. By doing this I kinow that my fix is fresh and will not let me down.
    Why not count the number of rolls and sheets and use hypo check?

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by gr82bart View Post
    So what's the professional / really experienced recommendation - stop bath solution or water? Assuming plain Jane developer like D-76.

    Regards, Art.
    Always use an acid stop for film and paper. It stops development immediately and preserves the fixer.
    Don Bryant

  3. #23
    Les McLean's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul Howell View Post
    Why not count the number of rolls and sheets and use hypo check?
    Paul, fair point I've always processed as described and I feel that chemistry is not so expensive so not doing the checks are you suggest simply eliminates the need to record the number of rolls and sheets when I develop film or print. It works and I'm happy.
    "Digital circuits are made from analogue parts"
    Fourtune Cookie-Brooklyn May 2006

    Website: www.lesmcleanphotography.com

  4. #24

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    Quote Originally Posted by gr82bart View Post
    ...experienced recommendation -
    stop bath solution or water? Art.
    Acid stop: Maintains the acidity of an acid fix, very
    quick, 10 to 30 seconds recommended.

    Water stop: Maintains an alkaline or neutral fix. Extended
    single or multiple rinses recommended.

    The acid stop and fix will render the developer inactive.
    A protracted or multiple water stop will wash the film or
    paper free of developer; developer which otherwise would
    be active in an alkaline stop.

    My method of processing, which is similar to the rotary film
    and print method, uses no stop what so ever. All chemistry
    is used very dilute one-shot. Dan

  5. #25
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    I am kinda partial to baths---maybe it is me being in touch with the my feminine side---so stop baths NEVER!!!

    But on film and paper sure always have so why not "stop" The only time I don't use stop baths is when I shoot a film that recommends against it like Efke/Adox.

    Hey Ansel Adams recommends it---good enuff for him good enuff for me

  6. #26
    Ole
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    Most developers require far higher pH to work than any alkaline fixer has. So a quick wash in water, followed by an alkaline (buffered) fixer would reduce the pH to below the threshold for the developer just as efficiently as an acidic fixer would.

    The only exception is Amidol, but that works even in slightly acidic conditions so with a quick stop and into the fixer it makes no difference if the stop is acidic or water.
    -- Ole Tjugen, Luddite Elitist
    Norway

  7. #27
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    acid stop bath, letting it drain adequately to carry over as little as possible into the fix; there has never been a problem.

  8. #28

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    The purpose of a stop bath is to quickly and completely stop the development process. It makes development predictable. A weak acid solution, like 2 percent acetic acid, does that admirably well. But I have always used a simple water rinse - usually a quick rise followed by a second rinse of about 30 seconds. It works fine, and I'm used to doing things that way. But a simple water rinse may not be all that certain for everyone.

  9. #29
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    Hmmm ... Thanks for all the responses. I'm not sure I have a "definitive" answer. Some amazing printers that use stop solution and some amazing printers that use water ... what to do, what to do ...

    Just to clarify as well, I was posing the question with respect to film development not paper. Thanks again.

    Regards, Art.
    Last edited by gr82bart; 01-02-2008 at 09:58 AM. Click to view previous post history.
    Visit my website at www.ArtLiem.com
    or my online portfolios at APUG and ModelMayhem

  10. #30

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    There was some research that suggested that sodium thiosulphate, ('acid fix') is inadequate for current emulsions and that ammonium thiosulphate is best. Further, alkaline solutions wash out much more efficiently than acid. I've been using a water stop for film for many years, (6 full changes of water) and an alkaline fixer. I ran tests a couple of years ago and it looked like the film washed to 'archival' in 2.5 minutes - I use 20 min though! The continued developer action in the water rinse is taken care of in your development tests, as long as you remain absolutely consistent in your technique. For printing, I use an acid stop but add a water rinse between stop and fix.

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