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Thread: Stop baths

  1. #1
    gr82bart's Avatar
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    Stop baths

    So what's the professional / really experienced recommendation - stop bath solution or water? Assuming plain Jane developer like D-76.

    Regards, Art.
    Visit my website at www.ArtLiem.com
    or my online portfolios at APUG and ModelMayhem

  2. #2

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    I use stop bath to extend the life of fixer. Stop bath cost little and lasts a long time.

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    TheFlyingCamera's Avatar
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    It depends on the developer I'm using. If I'm using a pyro developer, then plain water. If it's something like D-76 or Rodinal, you can use a stop bath if you like or not. If you use water, give 2 fills and dumps with 30 seconds agitation each fill.

  4. #4
    Les McLean's Avatar
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    I've used water as a stop bath for both film and print for years never had a problem.
    "Digital circuits are made from analogue parts"
    Fourtune Cookie-Brooklyn May 2006

    Website: www.lesmcleanphotography.com

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    hal9000's Avatar
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    I like to use citric acid stop bath because it smells less than acetic acid and since I also like to use the less smelly neutral fixer an acidic stop bath is recommended. My darkroom is small and does not have good ventilation (at least when the window is closed :-) so I like to keep smelly chemicals to a minimum.

  6. #6

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    I use a water stop bath for film (all sizes) and Kodak indicator stop bath for paper with no problems.

    Gord

  7. #7
    MurrayMinchin's Avatar
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    With an alkaline fixer like TF-4 or the homemade TF-3 you can use water. An acid fix will cause nothing but problems in the darkroom because you'll be seeing way too many vivid colours in swirling patterns that'll distract you from the task at hand. You can't trust that stuff anymore anyways, too many unknown ingredients!

    Murray
    _________________________________________
    Note to self: Turn your negatives into positives.

  8. #8
    PhotoJim's Avatar
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    I use stop bath for paper processing because I use an acid fixer.

    However, since I use an alkaline fixer for film processing, an acid stop bath isn't required. I use a one-minute running-water wash instead.
    Jim MacKenzie - Regina, Saskatchewan, Canada

    A bunch of Nikons; Feds, Zorkis and a Kiev; Pentax 67-II (inherited from my deceased father-in-law); Bronica SQ-A; and a nice Shen Hao 4x5 field camera with 3 decent lenses that needs to be taken outside more. Oh, and as of mid-2012, one of those bodies we don't talk about here.

    Favourite film: do I need to pick only one?

  9. #9
    PhotoJim's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MurrayMinchin View Post
    With an alkaline fixer like TF-4 or the homemade TF-3 you can use water. An acid fix will cause nothing but problems in the darkroom because you'll be seeing way too many vivid colours in swirling patterns that'll distract you from the task at hand. You can't trust that stuff anymore anyways, too many unknown ingredients!
    I told you, Murray, to stop using 1960s acid as a stop bath.
    Jim MacKenzie - Regina, Saskatchewan, Canada

    A bunch of Nikons; Feds, Zorkis and a Kiev; Pentax 67-II (inherited from my deceased father-in-law); Bronica SQ-A; and a nice Shen Hao 4x5 field camera with 3 decent lenses that needs to be taken outside more. Oh, and as of mid-2012, one of those bodies we don't talk about here.

    Favourite film: do I need to pick only one?

  10. #10
    Photo Engineer's Avatar
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    I use 2% acetic acid stop with all developer - fixer combinations.

    PE

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