Switch to English Language Passer en langue française Omschakelen naar Nederlandse Taal Wechseln Sie zu deutschen Sprache Passa alla lingua italiana
Members: 70,199   Posts: 1,531,477   Online: 862
      
Results 1 to 8 of 8
  1. #1

    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Ontario
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    775
    Images
    28

    looking to take printing further

    before i go any further, i know that prints are subjective and that everyone has different tastes and that if i'm content with my prints i should just shut up and keep printing etc, etc......BUT.....

    sometimes the status quo is boring. i'd love to try every paper out there, but i don't have a lot of money or time as i work 12 hour shifts and don't make much money.
    so, here's the low-down: i shoot kodak tri-x and plus-x almost exclusively in everything from 35mm to 4x5 (with some tmax in there from time to time). i used to print with kodak paper with great sucess. i'd print with kodak elite fibre prints forever if they still made it. now i kinda just stick with ilford muligrade IV RC deluxe and oriental seagull vc in a satin finish because it's readily available in the store. i ran outta both papers and i'm looking to buy some new stuff. i wouldn't mind getting back into fibre based prints either.
    i shoot a lot of "old stuff" like old cars, graffitti on walls and doors, farm equipment, broken down barns and i use a little more contrast than the average joe. i don't do portraits.
    any suggestions or starting points would be great. i know the best thing to do is try them all, but like i said before, it's not entirely feasible. that being said, any advice is welcome. thanks in advance....jordan.

  2. #2
    Ole
    Ole is offline
    Ole's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Bergen, Norway
    Shooter
    Large Format
    Posts
    9,281
    Blog Entries
    1
    Images
    31
    For your kind of work, I would recommend trying a graded paper. They tend to have longer straight-line density curves, so the tonal separation is equal over the whole range. One "side-effect" of this is that the prints look contrastier than they really are!

    It doesn't really matter which graded paper you pick, but I suggest getting one that is one grade softer than you usually use on VC.

    I'm happily printing away on Ilford Galerie G1, and I like really contrasty prints and develop my negs for tonal gradation, not tonal range.

    PS: I work 12 hour shifts too, but I make lots of money.
    -- Ole Tjugen, Luddite Elitist
    Norway

  3. #3
    Steve Smith's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Ryde, Isle of Wight
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    8,586
    Images
    122
    Quote Originally Posted by Ole View Post
    I suggest getting one that is one grade softer than you usually use on VC.

    I'm happily printing away on Ilford Galerie G1, and I like really contrasty prints and develop my negs for tonal gradation, not tonal range.)

    That's interesting. I recently bought 200 sheets of paper on ebay before I realised that it was all grade 1.

    I tried it anyway and it had a lot more contrast than I was expecting.


    Steve.
    "People who say things won't work are a dime a dozen. People who figure out how to make things work are worth a fortune" - Dave Rat.

  4. #4
    Bob Carnie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Toronto-Ontario
    Shooter
    Med. Format RF
    Posts
    4,649
    Images
    14
    Jordon

    One thing I do is when printing I get to a point that I like, and then for fun I spend a few more sheets doing something outrageous or different to that balance, It may be diffusions,tissues, high contrast shifts, or density shifts.
    next day I look at the dry prints, most times the original print is the one I like but sometimes a true gem emerges and that then is recorded in my noggin as a future trick up my sleeve.

    Bob

  5. #5
    jeroldharter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Shooter
    4x5 Format
    Posts
    1,958
    Images
    1
    You did not mention toning.

    Tim Rudman's book on toning is excellent and should keep you busy with new ideas, although I think fiber based paper would be better. Perhaps you could combine some of the other ideas, such as switching to fiber based paper, using warm toned paper, along with toning.

    Also, you might try testing your film paper combinations. Might seem boring but if you feel stagnant with your combination of materials/subjects, getting to know them on a different level can be interesting. I recommend the testing done through The View Camera Store (an APUG sponsor I think). It costs $45 for the film testing but saves massive amounts of time, is very informative, and does not require you to but their software. Learning the BTZS system has helped me alot.
    Jerold Harter MD

  6. #6
    Andrew Moxom's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Keeping the British end up in Minnesota
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    4,868
    Images
    333
    Jordan, I've recently started to try alternative papers to ones I've had in stock that are no longer available. I am close to being out of Forte PWT, and Agfa MCC. I have had great luck with the Foma papers, and more recently with the Slavich Bromportrait 80 graded paper. Its only available in G2 and G3, but so far I am impressed. The finish is an embossed silk.. much like 70's style paper, but the tonal range and performance is staggering. A very good warmtone paper all around. Then there is the Slavich unibrom 160 which is the coldest tone graded paper currently available today. Available in double or single weights it too should not disappoint. It will be my next emulsion purchase for testing. Bopth of these Slavich papers cost $14.99 for 25 x 8x10 sheets. This is a steal for the quality you get.

  7. #7

    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Phoeinx Arizona
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    1,343
    Slavich Bromportrait 80 graded paper. Its only available in G2 and G3, but so far I am impressed. The finish is an embossed silk.. much like 70's style paper, but the tonal range and performance is staggering. A very good warmtone paper all around. Then there is the Slavich unibrom 160 which is the coldest tone graded paper currently available today. Available in double or single weights it too should not disappoint. It will be my next emulsion purchase for testing. Bopth of these Slavich papers cost $14.99 for 25 x 8x10 sheets. This is a steal for the quality you get.[/QUOTE]

    I agree, Slavich reminds me of Broveria, the single wt is very easy to use, drys flat, fix and wash times are shorter, tones well in gold.

  8. #8

    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Ontario
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    775
    Images
    28
    with graded paper what are the concerns when using contrast filters? i shoot in varrying conditions of low contrast and high contrast negatives are the outcome. also are there concerns of what kind of safelight is used with graded papers as they have a broader spectrum band?
    also, where can you order these papers? my biggest concern, living in edmonton, alberta is that we have no photography stores that supply paper really. i have a choice between ilford IV in glossy of matt in 8x10....that's it!. any recommendations for that as well?



 

APUG PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Contact Us  |  Support Us!  |  Advertise  |  Site Terms  |  Archive  —   Search  |  Mobile Device Access  |  RSS  |  Facebook  |  Linkedin