Switch to English Language Passer en langue française Omschakelen naar Nederlandse Taal Wechseln Sie zu deutschen Sprache Passa alla lingua italiana
Members: 70,331   Posts: 1,537,218   Online: 865
      
Results 1 to 6 of 6

Thread: old face

  1. #1

    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    uk
    Posts
    291
    Images
    10

    old face

    I would like some advice on photographing an 86 year old face. I want to show every crease and wrinkle. Can any of you fellow apuggers post an example and tell me what 120 film/dev/exposure combo will give the desired result. I have only window light to work with.

  2. #2
    JBrunner's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Shooter
    35mm
    Posts
    6,780
    Quote Originally Posted by bogeyes View Post
    I would like some advice on photographing an 86 year old face. I want to show every crease and wrinkle. Can any of you fellow apuggers post an example and tell me what 120 film/dev/exposure combo will give the desired result. I have only window light to work with.
    http://www.freestylephoto.biz/sc_pro...pid=1000002571

    Don't know how much window light you got or what kind of aperture, but this would do the deed, shot and processed normal, or maybe N+1.

  3. #3
    greybeard's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Northern California
    Shooter
    Large Format
    Posts
    377
    Images
    6
    This is a question for someone with a lot more experience in portraiture than I have, but my suggestion would be to use a fine-grain film (Plus-X or FP4, for example) with a non-compensating developer (HC110 or the Ilford equivalent). Use mostly side lighting, moving back from the window as far as necessary to get a good balance between modeling and contrast (a large window will act fairly "soft" if you are close to it but become "harder" as you move farther away).

    Hanging something large and dark out of the field of view on the side opposite the light will help to keep the fine details from filling in too much with reflected light.

    North light is considered to be ideal, but a white sheet makes a great "instant softbox" when hung over a window with the sun hitting it. Just use any kind of dark cloth and clothespins to mask off an area of the right size and position (probably a little above horizontal and maybe a foot and a half square).

    Both resolution and contrast are important for what you are trying to do; use a tripod for steadiness of the camera, an aperture two or three stops down from wide open (good balance between speed, depth of field, and lens corrections) and a lens shade to prevent flare from dulling the contrast.

    Finally, all other things being equal, the more of the frame you fill the better will be the rendering of skin texture, so don't work too far back.

    Good luck!

  4. #4
    Ole
    Ole is offline
    Ole's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Bergen, Norway
    Shooter
    Large Format
    Posts
    9,281
    Blog Entries
    1
    Images
    31
    I would use EFKE R50! Expose at nominal speed, and give 30% more development in Neofin blau (if I had any; if not I would give 30% more development in any other dilute developer but bracket the exposure like mad).

    I would also take care to get nice even illumination, using reflectors if necessary. The low red-sensitivity of the film will enhance wrinkles, as will the extended development.

    This is a case where it makes sense to read Mortenson instead of Adams...
    -- Ole Tjugen, Luddite Elitist
    Norway

  5. #5

    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    2,054
    Very good advice above. I don't know hou much light you have (can you measure with an incident meter?) but you might need a 400 speed film. Grain is not a big deal with a 120 neg. If 400 is too fast, try 100-125.

    As far as a dev, well, how about ID-11, 1+1. I hear that's available in the UK!

  6. #6

    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    1,136
    Best aperture depends on what focal length is used.I have found that even with a carefully focussed 150mm at f11 only 20-30% of shots have eyelashes tack sharp in headshots.
    Here I have 1/60 f11 EI 400 for north window light on a dull day.Sounds like a tripod and cable release job. Only use slow film if the set-up is shake free.



 

APUG PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Contact Us  |  Support Us!  |  Advertise  |  Site Terms  |  Archive  —   Search  |  Mobile Device Access  |  RSS  |  Facebook  |  Linkedin