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  1. #11
    gainer's Avatar
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    Years ago I routinely used HC110 for prints, but I added some carbonate. I used the 1+31 dilution and added about 1 tablespoon of washing soda per liter. The actual amount of carbonate is not very critical. I don't know what they are selling for washing soda these days. I haven't seen it in my local stores recently. A somewhat smaller amount of pH Plus or anhydrous carbonate will work. The carbonate helps to produce true black where it belongs in about 2 minutes.
    Gadget Gainer

  2. #12

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    yes, i did this about half a year ago when i ran out of eukobrom and sodium carbonate (that's why i wasn't able to mix together something else)
    i used dilution A and it worked fine. very contrasty, even more than eukobrom, iirc. the paper was kentmere fineprint vc baryte glossy.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by IOS View Post
    After 12 prints i started to improve. I will hit the supply store today to get more paper, would you reccomend Ilford paper ? I was thinking Kodak but the way things are going with Kodak dicontinuing everything i dont want to get used to their paper and they pull it like everything else.

    Thankls for your help .
    Kodak got out of the B&W paper business a while back.

    Ilford MGIV is good stuff. Use and enjoy, then branch out to other paper types and manufacturers. Good source of small packages is Freestyle Photo (Google is your friend).
    Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things! http://rwyoung.wordpress.com

  4. #14
    IOS
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    Quote Originally Posted by jim appleyard View Post
    There's a page here for using HC-110 as a paper dev:http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/

    Jim, Thank you for the link !!

  5. #15

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    Yep, Kodak won't work for B&W paper any more. Ilford MGIV RC is great. But read through this forum and there's not a paper on the market that isn't somebody's favourite. But for the time being stick with RC and with variable contrast and print and print and print some more. I got through a box of a hundred in my first week. Boy it's fun isn't it. And then, when you think your prints are perfect, investigate other papers.

    Enjoy,

    Hywel

  6. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by IOS View Post
    Should the mix be stronger then the mix I use for film ?
    I use a 1:40 ... Jim
    That dilution should be OK for starters although a liter
    of working strength at that dilution would have who knows
    how much capacity. One print or roll of film would do for me
    as I use chemistry very dilute once then dump; one-shot.

    Add a tablespoon of sodium carbonate, washing soda, per liter
    for prints. Prints need a more alkaline developer. Dan

  7. #17
    IOS
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    Quote Originally Posted by dancqu View Post
    That dilution should be OK for starters although a liter
    of working strength at that dilution would have who knows
    how much capacity. One print or roll of film would do for me
    as I use chemistry very dilute once then dump; one-shot.

    Add a tablespoon of sodium carbonate, washing soda, per liter
    for prints. Prints need a more alkaline developer. Dan

    Thank you Dan for your advice.

    Jim

  8. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by IOS View Post
    . I will get the Ilford paper developer tomorrow. It's 1am here in chicago and i have the urge to make my first print.

    jim
    Pity that makes it about breakfast time in the UK otherwise a guy called Simon Galley of Ilford might just open a bottle of Scotch! Seriously it's this kind of enthusiasm that will keep analogue going.

    Don't forget two important non Ilford ingredients called food and sleep. Take both in reasonable quantities. No measurments needed

    pentaxuser

  9. #19

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    So as not to leave a wrong impression I will briefly detail my use of
    chemistry very dilute one-shot. The method is very nearly the same
    as rotary drum processing using one-shot chemistry. Rather than A
    drum I use A tray. Solution volumes are more than used when
    drum processing; 8x10s, 300ml +/-.

    A question has been made of my disposal of that amount of developer
    and fixer. More questionable though is disposal of that amount of water.
    Surprisingly high dilutions are practical to use. So, very little chemistry
    goes down the drain, so to speak.

    Processing times are longer but films and papers go directly from
    developer to fix. The fix being very dilute washes faster and
    with less water. Not least, each roll or print has it's fresh
    chemistry. No testing of or doubting the chemistry. Dan

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