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  1. #1
    IOS
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    Beginner having trouble printing

    Im a beginner and i tried to print a 35mm. When i took it out of the fixer the print was beautiful and sharp with alot of detail. After it dried it was garbage ! it was so flat and dull with all the sharpness totaly gone. Does anyone know why this happened after it dried ? Thank you for your response.

    First image is the original negative scan
    Second image is the print that went bad after it dried
    Third image is another print that went bad when it dried
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 119.jpg   hc-1101.jpg   c.jpg  

  2. #2
    Snapshot's Avatar
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    How long did you fix the print? How long was your wash cycle? Resin coated or fibre? Matte or glossy. I'm guess you used matte resin coated, multigraded VC paper. If there was insufficient washing time, you can get dull, lifeless prints.
    "The secret to life is to keep your mind full and your bowels empty. Unfortunately, the converse is true for most people."

  3. #3
    IOS
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    Sorry i forgot to post the info

    trees and hill

    Paper Ilford satin multigrade rc
    Developer kodak hc-110 Dul 2-15.5 for 1 minute
    Stopbath kodak for 10 sec
    Fixer kodafix for 2 minutes
    Rinse for 5 minutes
    Exposure F11 for 30 sec

    Cemetery
    Paper Ilford satin multigrade rc
    Developer kodak hc-110 Dul 2-15.5 for 1 minute
    Stopbath kodak for 10 sec
    Fixer kodafix for 2 minutes
    Rinse for 5 minutes
    Exposure f8 for 20 sec

  4. #4
    hal9000's Avatar
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    Hi, HC-110 is a film developer, I don't think it is particularly good for paper. Try Dektol instead. Hal

  5. #5
    IOS
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    Quote Originally Posted by hal9000 View Post
    Hi, HC-110 is a film developer, I don't think it is particularly good for paper. Try Dektol instead. Hal

    I also tried r09 and got the same results.

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by IOS View Post
    I also tried r09 and got the same results.
    R09 is also a film developer. I have not tried to develop paper in film developer – but like Hal I believe that this is the root of your problem.

  7. #7
    David Brown's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by IOS View Post
    Paper Ilford satin multigrade rc
    Developer kodak hc-110 Dul 2-15.5 for 1 minute
    Stopbath kodak for 10 sec
    Fixer kodafix for 2 minutes
    Rinse for 5 minutes
    As said earlier, you need a paper deveoper. RO9 isn't one either.

    In my experience, the Ilford RC satin paper looks very flat when dry compared to when wet. This effect, coupled with your very short processing times, could be the problem. I would be using longer times in all three chems.

    Another variable you are not mentioning is the filtration you are using for contrast, if any.

    I would suggest getting some Kodak Dektol or Ilford paper developer, and some glossy paper. Read the directions and follow them for all of the chemicals and the chosen paper, and see if your results don't get better.

    Good luck. We'll be here.
    David
    Taking pictures is easy. Making photographs is hard.

    http://www.behance.net/silverdarkroom
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  8. #8
    ann
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    isn't that film developer as well? Also, when using paper developer the prints need to develop for 90 secs.


    what was the filter grade?

    Prints look better wet than dry, and you need to figure out the dry down times and apply. RC paper has less dry down than fiber, but it can look quite different when dry.


    What is happening is just the learning curve , and we always end up with more prints going into the learning bin before they are ready for the wall.
    (learning bin=trash can)
    http://www.aclancyphotography.com

  9. #9
    Jon Shiu's Avatar
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    Also, the satin paper (matte surface) can be somewhat flat and dull in tone when it dries. Pearl or glossy would give deeper black tones.

    Jon
    Mendocino Coast Black and White Photography: www.jonshiu.com

  10. #10

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    Isn't R09 a film developer also? Where did you obtain the information to use HC-110 and then RO9 for print development? Satin RC is much duller than either Pearl or Glossy and as such looks much different while still wet compared to dry. The difference is much greater than the change in Pearl or Glossy paper from wet to dry. Difficult to judge from a scan but Satin is a very flat finish which is how it looks on my monitor.

    Use a proper print developer then judge. I have a feeling that you will not like a Satin finish anyway based on what I think your expectations of how the finished print look should be.

    What made you choose Satin? Did you check any Satin samples before buying?

    pentaxuser

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